MOSCHINO THE ARGENTINAN

Moschino has appointed Adrian Appiolaza as creative director. The Argentinian designer will lead the house’s women’s, men’s and accessories collections, succeeding Davide Renne, who died prematurely last November a few months after being appointed head of style at Moschino.

Adrian Appiolaza left Buenos Aires, where he grew up, in his early twenties to move to London, where he graduated from Central Saint Martins fashion school. On leaving school in 2002, he made his debut at Chloé, before transferring to Miu Miu four years later.

In 2009, he joined Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, then returned to Chloé as design director for ready-to-wear. In 2014, he joined Loewe (LVMH), holding the position of design director for women’s ready-to-wear for almost a decade.

PATOU PARIS 2024

Guillaume Henry, Patou’s artistic director, said backstage he wanted to embrace a woman who walks with enthusiasm and dignity.

Her wardrobe showed his deft touch for outerwear and knack for attractive proportions, helping her on her way.

Among the looks were roomy belted coats with XXL pockets, cropped boxy jackets with shiny buttons, separates made of pinstriped shirting in pink and blue, and belted pleated skirts that swung as models briskly turned the runway. Continue reading

MARGIELA BY JOHN

As Gwendoline Christie finished her circuit in her kinky fit-and-flare latex dress, the photographers howled “Bravo” and filmmaker Baz Luhrmann joined the audience in stomping his feet. Every outfit was a marvel of imagination and artisanal craft. Mix between New look, and French cancan dancers, but also the style of the court of Catherine de Medicis.

There were sheer bias-cut dresses embellished with silvery embroidery, or dense accumulation of godets; rumpled street-urchin suits nipped and tucked for maximum glamour, and gauzy siren gowns that showed off the models’ enhanced Jessica Rabbit figures like the cartoom.

At the end of a week full of safe, client-friendly clothes, Galliano returned the rare pursuit to its original R&D purpose. This poignant, unforgettable show reaffirmed Galliano’s status as a fashion icon.

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MAISON MARGIELA 2024

K-WAY 2024

Fashion institutions have once again let one of the French flagships go abroad, because now the brand is owned by BasicNet S.p.A., an Italian company specializing in the sports and leisure clothing sector. This has just made a big splash with its collection in Milan which was truly an innovative collection and in the taste of all people today.

BALMAIN THE FASHION COLLECTOR

Balmain’s creative director, Oliver Rousteing, embarked on a daring journey, collecting fragments from various designers along the way. Show spectacle echoes Jeremy Scott’s Moschino, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli, and Colm Dillane’s Louis Vuitton (KidSuper). Although it’s a true fashion potluck, we have to wonder: did Rousteing lose his GPS in the world of couture?

It is in the 19th arrondissement of Paris that Olivier Rousteing has chosen to unveil his new men’s collection. One of the bimbos on the bus seeing the district asks her friend if she should bring her passport. Continue reading

DIOR DANCES WITH WOLVES

Kim Jones got a jumpstart fir his first full line of haute couture for men at Dior during the ready to wear. Inspired by Russian dancer Rudolf Nureyev, who collected kaftans, kimonos and precious shawls that he enjoyed wearing in private.

To the dramatic strains of the “Dance of the Knights” from Sergei Prokofiev’s “Romeo and Juliet,” from man to man.

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EXIT HANDOVER IN LVMH

Burke will succeed Toledano at LVMH Fashion Group. LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault will work with Toledano as an adviser alongside his role at the Paris fashion school IFM after Toledano leaves the executive committee.

With the handover, LVMH completes one of the biggest guard changes in its history. The transition began one year ago when Burke stepped down as Louis Vuitton chairman and CEO after a stellar 10-year tenure, passing the baton to then-Dior chairman and CEO Pietro Beccari, who in turn was succeeded by Delphine Arnault.

The lord gathers his family around him, like the kings yesterday, but who will be the Kalif in place of the Kalif?

VUITTON WEST OF EDEN

A cowboy for Vuitton by Pharrell, I would have rather said a “screw it” boy, and the magazines tomorrow will headline the stroke of genius of making a Cowboy collection, you really had to think about it!

Walk your carcass in the gardens of the Vuitton foundation for a Wild West beef effect in front of philistines asleep by the hash consumed while waiting for the “Wall of Fame”, for the last train of “Gun Deal” rolling towards the American West to project us the last kaleidoscope of the plastic canvas of the lord of the Rings.

This is a very different atmosphere from the Pont Neuf for the success of a man of Nothingness, the, son of a pharaoh, as he likes to call himself, does not even know that the Ameridians had black slaves since 1502, attesting to the idea that he doesn’t even know the history of his own country.

Pharrell cultivates the Wild West which is less dangerous, but will not help him to create a collection with talent, only with the boutiques that you can be found north of Los Angeles where John Wayne used to hang out. ‘dress and where I bought my Stetson long time ago.

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FENDI LUXURY SILKY SOFT

Fendi and a fall Fendi men’s collection that could be summed up as a hyper-luxurious edition. Fisherman coats, waxed field jackets and loden overcoats were treated with the Roman house’s inimitable finesse, the suede collars etched to resemble corduroy.

Meanwhile, super wide-wale corduroy pants were more plush than a bathrobe in a luxury spa, and loose, Wellington-style boots came in leather a real leather

A SOUL IN THE EYE

At the heart of the luxury goods and perfume industry, where every detail counts and design is king, a singular and enigmatic figure emerges: a bottle designer like Serge Mansau and Pierre Dinand in their day. But not just any designer: this one doesn’t work for the big name brands, but rather for some completely unlikely ones. Here’s a look at an artist who’s going against the grain.

While the world of fashion and luxury is dominated by the big houses of the Lord of Arnault and the Prince of Venice, this designer deliberately chooses to stray from the beaten track to make a name for himself. Why design bottles for Chanel, Dior or Gucci when you can design “Ce n’est pas drôle c’est Marrant” for Isabelle, “A mon Aix” for Jacquemus, or “un Ami qui vous veut du bien” for AMI perfume?

He challenges norms and expectations, questions established values and offers a subtle but powerful critique of the excessive superficiality that often characterises the world of luxury and the lack of humour, a powerful factor in memorisation. His approach provokes conversation, fuels social media and challenges established conventions. Ultimately, this designer manages to kick-start even the very universe he deliberately chooses to defy.

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FENDI LUXURY SILKY SOFT

Fendi and a fall Fendi men’s collection that could be summed up as a hyper-luxurious edition. Fisherman coats, waxed field jackets and loden overcoats were treated with the Roman house’s inimitable finesse, the suede collars etched to resemble corduroy.

Meanwhile, super wide-wale corduroy pants were more plush than a bathrobe in a luxury spa, and loose, Wellington-style boots came in leather a real leather.

Continue reading

AND THE WINNER IS LVMH

Natalie Portman wearing Dior couture. Louis Vuitton’s fashion brand juggernaut, which has tripled in size in less than seven years, dressed 19 celebrities at Sunday’s Golden Globes.

In a Dior Haute Couture, Natalie Portman channeled her character in Saltburn while Rosamund Pike wore Dior Haute Couture

In a black silk wool peak-lapel tuxedo and black embroidered shirt, Dior men’s artistic director Kim Jones dressed 12 guests, including Succession winner Kieran Culkin.

Styled by Petra Flannery, Emma Stone wore a custom deep-V gown with flower embellishments and Louis Vuitton high jewelry.

Barry Keoghan wore a red Damier-patterned Louis Vuitton suit with a punk edge from the men’s spring 2004 collection with pearl buttons and a pearl wallet chain. For the Golden Globes the winner is LVMH, congratulation Lord.

GUCCI VISION

The last two years have been a watershed. Kering began taking beauty back in-house in February 2022, and Richemont in September 2023 said it was building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie, among other moves.

The homing in on beauty comes as luxury makers’ once red-hot trades in China and fashion, with its discretionary categories, cooled. But beauty has remained strong due to its ongoing growth, desirability, margins and resilience during challenging geopolitical and macroeconomic times.

Fragrance and cosmetics a big, fast-developing business, with’its products boasting high frequency of use. The category generated sales in 2022 of approximately $430 billion. Continue reading

VERY SPEEDY PROCESSING P9

The French luxury brand has redoubled its deployment, including a temporary establishment on Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris and a takeover of its Fifth Avenue flagship in New York, both entirely decorated with the checkerboard pattern. . . it was the keystone of Monsieur Happy’s spring 2024 collection.

During Vuitton’s pre-fall men’s show in Hong Kong in early December, Williams took a quick business trip to China, which coincided with the installation of three giant Speedy airbags: one on the exterior of the Louis Vuitton house . . Chengdu lighthouse. and two in Shanghai, one of which ran down the Huangpu River into the city.

According to research and data analytics company Launchmetrics, the show had a media impact value of $42.6 million. The event broke records by garnering 775 million views on Vuitton-owned platforms and an additional 300 million video views on press accounts, the brand said, but no orders! Continue reading