DIOR 2022

For the first major show of Paris Fashion Week after the covid, the Dior women’s wear designer transformed a tent in the Tuileries gardens into a ‘60s-era nightclub, with a multilevel circular stage where a live band played Italian disco music, and models stood until it was their turn to walk.

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GUCCI THE TWILIGHT ZONE

Vault is a programming tool that allows you to create, manage and store project-specific secrets. Alessandro Michele loves the word so much it’s the name he has given to Gucci’s new online concept store. “It’s such a pregnant word,” he enthuses. “It can be pregnant with everything you know.” He is certainly doing his best to guarantee that Vault arrives with a bellyful of wonders. “An online storage of beautiful things,” he calls it, like a virtual

Vault, which launches Saturday, is described by Gucci as “a time machine, an archive, a library, a laboratory, and a meeting place.” It is also the latest manifestation of Michele’s appetite for experimentation.

A time machine has always been my dream. Not so much for Michele, though he admits he would really love to have “a beautiful dinner or maybe just a quick coffee” with Federico Fellini and Anna Magnani. In fact welcome  to the twilight zone.

GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2022

After 20 years, the show is back to his original theater at 11 Via Borgonuovo, an underground space at his storied headquarter where he showed his collections every season until he opened the new Tadao Ando-designed theater across town in 2001. Continue reading

ROBERTO CAVALLI 2022 TIGER

Puglisi went wild with the tiger theme, perhaps a little too wild with the wicked, claw-like heels on pumps and the gorgeous metallic brocades that were slashed to smithereens. The designer cited a slipdress from the early Aughts worn by by Cindy Crawford as the springboard for the spring 2022 collection. Continue reading

FENDI 2022 MILANO

Kim Jones since joining Fendi a year ago has fully embraced the family, the brand’s DNA and its entire heritage, including the rich and unprecedented contribution of the late Karl Lagerfeld, who designed the fur and ready-to-wear for the Roman house. -to -wear for 54 years. Continue reading

VICTORIA BECKHAM LONDON 2022

It’s raining men and cats in Victoria Beckham. The spirit of escape and vacation, the joy of slipping into his suitcase, the shirt of his partner thrown on his swimsuit to leave on vacation again and again … A jacket tucked into suit pants, I like the idea that a couple can share their clothes in the right way, she who has the Bac and the Ham at the same time. The green atmosphere has virtues, because it allows to solicit the right and left hemispheres of the brain at the same time, to concentrate on something creative. But green is also the color of chance, of fate.

It represents what changes, what is not stable. Therefore, it represents both luck and bad luck. The gaming tables in casinos are covered with a green carpet, so that the players captivated by the game remain focused. Continue reading

INGLOURIOUS MASTAR

The Italians are rebelling, and by not wanting to give in to the group of Lord Arnault, mark a turning point in acquisitions. It would have been brilliant for LVMH, to continue to build progressively its portfolio of high-end wines, which did not yet have any Italian brands worthy of the name. Banfi is a vineyard. “It is known as the hop”, this great wine of Tuscany. An ideal brand for the Lord’s group, associated with a historic castle, the cornerstone of the image of authentic luxury that the group seeks to spread to sell the story of history. Continue reading

FRENCH FEDERATION CHANGE

The French Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has published the final version of the official schedulen finally, with a number of changes as usual. The return of Saint Laurent, the first big house to step away from preset schedules to set its own pace for collections during the pandemic, who says goodbye to the Venice views and desert vistas to return with an 8 p.m. show on Sept. 28  at the new museum of the businessman Pinault.

It joins returnees Balenciaga, Loewe, Maison Margiela and Valentino among the big names that have decided to return their collections to Paris this season. Couturier Alexandre Vauthier has moved the reveal of his latest ready-to-wear offering to a bright and early 9 a.m. on Oct. 2. Continue reading

IPHONE 13 VENDREDI

The subtle aesthetic changes in Apple’s latest collection of iPhones, iPads and Watch hold no carrot for a fashion set that craves newness.

But the company, which held its virtual “California streaming” product announcement on Tuesday, is betting that its beefy camera upgrades and other under-the-hood improvements will keep its smartphones in high demand. Continue reading

CAROLINA HERRERA 2022

Despite the ridiculous gestures more incongruous than couture, at Carolina Herrera the task does not matter as long as you have drunk. But it is true that with “Gordon who did not invent the Gin”, the creation and the filiform girls follow each other and look alike, these thin as nails, never make me hammer. “My eye is used to seeing beautiful things” he likes to say, he comes from Chicago Illinois, and builds dresses like the buildings of the city of Al Capone. If you attended the last presentation of his collection in New York, we had trouble seeing the beautiful and sublime being non-existent! A color palette of stains and gingham a la Tati, on suits that set the tone of a collection not very shiny.

Far, very far from this young boy so charming who, at the time, gave us his copy without inhibition. We thought then that his age would outweigh his youth to become a real designer, but it is not so. We have before us the finest example of couture cheating, imitation and false art, as well as the triumph of failure, the apotheosis of puffism. Continue reading

MAISIE WILEN SPRING 2022

We are in the midst of a innerwear-as-outerwear, shorter-tighter, fetish-fashion moment the likes of which we haven’t seen since the ’90s. Making her New York Fashion Week debut Saturday morning at the Boom Boom Room, fittingly, Los Angeles-based Maisie Wilen designer Maisie Schloss was here for it. Continue reading

FRENCH WORDS

Did you know that onomatopoeia makes words from a sound? Coquelicot, which appeared in the 16th century, is derived from cocorico, because the red flower is reminiscent of a rooster’s crest. Click, which in 1306 meant “to make a dry noise” had disappeared from the French language. It came back in 1980, reported by the English as “To click” to designate the use of the computer mouse. But there are many other terms derived from onomatopoeia such as chuintement, claque, hibou, hiccup or even zézaiement…

Over the course of time, we will also discover that words are sometimes taken from proper names. As early as the 16th century, the “truism”, in other words “an obvious fact that is unnecessarily specified”, was known. It comes from Jacques de la Palissade, who had nothing to do with this posthumous glory. Continue reading