CHANEL NEGATIVE RESULT

Unlike its main competitors, LVMH and Kering, which last year both posted record growth, in 2016 Chanel suffered a fall in sales and profits. After years of steady growth, Chanel indeed continues to slow down. As in 2015, last year the French fashion label, led since 1983 by Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld, saw its net income plummet by 34.8%, down to $874 million (€736 million), while its revenue lost 9%, reaching $5.67 billion (€4.77 billion).

According to the group, the downturn is chiefly explained by the sale of its Chanel Limited UK subsidiary, which accounts for approximately 11% of sales, to another Chanel-owned corporation. “On a like-for-like basis and at constant exchange rates, the results were on par with 2015,” wrote the group in its yearly report, noting also how, among other reasons, in the first part of the year Chanel was affected by the terrorist attacks in Europe, which “had a negative impact on tourist flows and consequently sales.” Continue reading

VANS AND KARL COOPERATION

Vans and Karl Lagerfeld have just signed a cooperation to design a footwear and apparel capsule set to be launched worldwide on September 7.

The two brands have fused their respective universes, the Vans’ hallmark checkerboard pattern is revisited using a cameo motif depicting Lagerfeld’s iconic profile.

There will be six interpretations of Vans footwear classics include the Sk8-Hi laceless platform and Old Skool laceless (old school, Karl knows well about it) styles outfitted in leather with the quilted letter-shaped detail atop white platform soles, and a solid black leather Classic Slip-On — also with the quilted letter K. Continue reading

HAMESBRANDS AND CURVY WOMEN

Hamesbrands love curvy women and after a year-long of research, the brand has developed new bras, panties and shapewear to meet their clients requirements.

“Curvy” is the new term, and the most preferred one for women  of all age being overweight.

Maidenform brand is introducing Maidenform Curvy shapewear, and the iconic full-figure Playtex brand is introducing the Playtex Love My Curves line of bras and, for the first time, matching panties.

The shapewear, which is offered in new 1X to 4X sizes, fits women that wear US dress sizes 16 to 30 and can be found at major department stores and online starting at $44. Continue reading

LVMH MASTER OF THE WORLD

LVMH powered ahead in the second quarter thanks to “outstanding momentum” at its cash-cow Louis Vuitton brand, but reiterated its cautious outlook for the second half as it starts to face tougher comparatives, particularly in Asia.

The parent of brands including Fendi, Sephora, Bulgari and Hennessy said revenues, including for the first-time German luggage maker Rimowa, rose 15 percent year-over-year to 9.83 billion euros in the three months to June 30.

Organic growth was 12 percent, above a market consensus forecast of 10 percent growth. The group said it benefited from a favorable comparison base in Asia as well as France, where activity last year was affected by the impact of terrorist attacks, adding that current trends could not be extrapolated for the full year. Continue reading

CÉLINE IN TUSCANY

Several days after announcing the launch of a leather goods training course in partnership with Polimoda, the luxury giant has returned to Tuscany, a region known for its expertise in leather, to unveil a new atelier dedicated to its brand Céline, which will see the light of day in 2019.

The brand, created in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and now helmed by creative director Phoebe Philo, will double the number of its production entities in the Italian region with this latest venture.

With an atelier already opened in Greve, near Florence, the Maison has inked a partnership with the Tuscan to install a new centre in Radda, in the province of Siena. The agreement, which lasts for five years, proposes training on site, as well as research and development. The goal is to develop an industry 4.0 model, over some 2,000 square metres of space dedicated to production, according to local press. Continue reading

VUITTON NET OF THRONES

Last week, Louis Vuitton joined the online market likes of Burberry, Gucci and Michael Kors still dominated by local China giants such as Tmall and JD.com.

“This was expected and somewhat overdue — clearly a good sign that the European megabrands are finally entering the Chinese luxury digital market,” said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas.

Rogerio Fujimori, analyst at RBC Capital Markets, agreed it was a logical move, since Chinese consumers are increasingly making luxury purchases at home, taking advantage of narrowing price differentials and Chinese government initiatives to streamline customs procedures for e-commerce.

“There is a structural trend toward repatriation in general, and within China, like in any other market, there is a shift to omnichannel, a shift to mobile,” he said. “You have the Millennial segment that is more digital-influenced, that will grow older and they’ll carry on those habits, so I think they’re adapting.” Continue reading

TALENTS QUIT FASHION HOUSES

Famous designers are treated like European Premier League football managers: No matter how talented you are. Fashion Industry observers and those who work with designers say it is a sign of these digitally driven times, where the pressure is on to deliver multiple capsule collections and substantial sales growth season after season, to maintain the buzz around a brand and to keep shareholders happy.

Others believe many of those famous talented designers have been too far. They have big ego, ask for outsized salaries, require too much creative control for the brands. Therefore it’s no surprise that some big names have been replaced by younger, hipper and less expensive talents who don’t necessarily feel the need to control every aspect of a brand’s identity. Continue reading

NO ARM BANDIT FOR LINKS

Links of London is opening its fifth U.S. boutique at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas on Saturday.

Links is offering an interactive experience both in the stores and online because “personalization and storytelling are at the core of the Links of London DNA” said Leela Petrakis, president of FF Group North America, the company that owns the brand.

The store will feature displays that incorporate elements unique like the Sweetie collection — bracelet and whimsical charms — that will be showcased in a display reimagined to look like a roulette table. You will also find an Engraving and Customization Bar which will allow customers to custom design their charm bracelets. Other services at the store include in-house engraving, restringing and polishing. Continue reading

THE FRANCO-ITALIAN LVMH CONNECTION

Louis Vuitton is extending its vocational training model to Italy through a partnership between the Institut des Métiers d’Excellence (IME) and the Italian fashion and design school Polimoda, aimed at training leather-goods artisans.

Founded in 2014, the IME program is involved in schooling more than 200 young people in areas including jewelry, dressmaking, winemaking, leather goods, culinary arts, watches, luxury retail and design together with partner institutions in France and Switzerland.

They include BJO Formation in Paris for jewelry, the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne for fashion and the Ferrandi Paris school for gastronomy. Polimoda becomes the first Italian school to join the initiative, beginning with the 2017-2018 school year. Continue reading

GEORGES KERN QUITS RICHEMONT

The recent management shake-ups at Richemont Group just took an unexpected turn. The luxury conglomerate, which owns brands the likes of Cartier, IWC and Vacheron Constantin, announced earlier today that its head of watchmaking, marketing and digital, Georges Kern, has resigned, effective immediately.

Kern, who has been with the Swiss luxury group for 17 years, only assumed this latest role less than four months ago.

He has also stepped down from the Senior Executive Committee and the Group Management Committee, and will no longer be standing for election to the Board of Directors of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA at the forthcoming annual general meeting of shareholders. Continue reading

LAPIDUS AND LANVIN

Olivier Lapidus from latin ‘lapideus’, meaning ‘made of stone, 59 years old, is a french designer quite known in France but almost unknown in the world has been appointed on Monday as the new artistic director of Lanvin.

He is expected to present his first Lanvin collection in September for the spring 2018 women’s ready-to-wear season,.

The company, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, has been majority owned since 2001 by Taiwan-based media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang. It has seen sales erode for several years which has been leading to financial difficulties.

Besides the minority shareholder Ralph Bartel and investment banker Pierre Mallevays of Savigny Partners, both board members, have submitted letters of resignation to disassociate themselves from Wang’s decisions and governance as Wang did not go through a proper process using professional advice from a talent search firm. Continue reading

LANVIN FIRED BOUCHRA JARRAR

Shaw-Lan Wang, the owner of the brand Lanvin which is in great financial difficulties has just decided to fire the actual artistic director Bouchra Jarrar after having fired the renowned designer Alber Elbaz

Bouchra Jarrar was very weakened by the lack of success of his collections. His departure had been acquired for a while already, “said the Reuter’s source.

The stylist was only appointed 15 months ago at the head of the artistic direction of the women’s fashion label. There will be no collection for the upcoming spring-summer season (scheduled for late September), said the source.

Taken in the turmoil since the departure of its former artistic director Alber Elbaz, Lanvin saw its sales fall by 23% in 2016, to 162 million euros, and recorded a net loss of 18.3 million, after a profit of 6.3 million in 2015. The trend was further aggravated in early 2017, with sales falling 32% in the first two months of the year compared to the same period in 2016,

Continue reading

CHANEL EFFECT TOWER

Stunning, the power of Wertheimer group who moved the Eiffel Tower under the dome of the Grand Palais. Lord Hamburger had even ordered clouds at the ceiling for this occasion, but he does not yet speak to God like the lord of the Arnaults. However, he has asked a German engineer, Herbert Von Wolke, to do this miracle.

Madame Gabrielle loved towers especially the Fernsehturm. Printed on our invitation, a painting by Delaunay that we had recognized and therefore we suspected that after the rocket we will have the most famous tower of the world.

In fact, the French house killed two birds with one stone: celebrating the emblematic founder of the house, and launching its new perfume named “Mademoiselle”. Then, we attended to the presentation of dresses in the shape of the perfume bottle. The Baroness of Cystitia Rheynale, told me that she had recognized in the first models the style of her friend, the great Chantal de Monteunez that she had not seen for a long time. Continue reading

DIOR 70 HAUTE COUTURE

Dior took place at Les Invalides, transformed for the occasion into a Garden of Eden located in the middle of Paris, place Vauban where the cohorts of limousines formed a fortress.

The Prince of Luxury surely spoke with God to ensure a sunny weather! The sky became blue with a few clouds from time to time to leave a slightly cool breeze caressing the bodies of women dressed for the occasion as if the air conditioning had been regulated by the nature. Dear Sir, you know that we enjoyed this tour de force, and we are aware that you like to speak to the Gods of Olympus to satisfy your audience.

Upon arriving, I came across the American actor Robert Pattinson, the couturier Alber Elbaz as well as a floor of people of TV reality series, Vicomtesses and Baronesses, who represented the society for the second collection Haute Couture of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Continue reading

MORE AND SIMPLE SPIRIT

The French Fashion Federation have simplified its name and changed the logo and the internet website. From now, the federation will be known as La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. In the past the full name of the French Fashion Federation was : La Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, especially long and not easy to translate in english. So the decision was made to simplify the name but still not really to translate…. This is the french organisation.

The story of the founding of the Federation’s respective trade associations dates back to 1868, when Paris-based British designer Charles Frederick Worth created the Chambre Syndicale de la Confection et de la Couture pour Dames et Fillettes. In 1911, the trade association became strictly couture-focused, shortening its name to the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. After World War II, it was changed once again to La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Continue reading

CHANEL KNOCK-OFF

Last Friday, in California, federal judge condemned 30 sellers of counterfeit Chanel-logoed products that had been operating through Amazon.com. the famous luxury house

The court condemned $100,000 each seller-defendant for every knock-off item they sold leaving Chanel to collect somewhere around $3 million as a result of the decision.

Amazon must now disable the defending stores and take down images of any infringing product. Amazon Payments is this week supposed to transfer funds held in the accounts of the sellers to Chanel. Although details of the account holdings are not available, the totals are unlikely to equal the amount of damages.

 

RIMO WAY FOR SUCCESS

In June, the LVMH-owned brand hired Hector Muelas as Chief Brand Officer to oversee the brand’s global marketing and communications.

This month, Rimowa appointed Rocky Jacob as Chief Product Officer, marking as the second major appointment for the German luggage producer.

Rocky Jacob, Rimowa’s newest addition, headed the Alphabet-owned home automation producer that created the “learning” digital thermostat that adjusts room temperature based on patterns. At Nest, he served Head of Industrial Design, and now he will serve as an adviso. Continue reading

DIOR FASHION HOME AGE

Gentlemen, you are so slim to be a man ! Kris Van Assche celebrates a decade at the helm of the label, paying homage to the savoir-faire of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label that appeared on the sleeves of suits, as a ribbon print on a coat, and in logo form on white T-shirts.

Van Assche used the black suit jacket as a canvas for experiments in extreme tailoring. He highlighted its sporty potential by pairing a body-skimming version with fluid pants and sneakers, or slinging a sleeveless variant over a bare chest and tiny shorts. Continue reading

RON FRASCH JOINS BURBERRY’S BOARD

Formerly president and chief merchandising office of Saks Fifth Avenue, Ron Frasch has just been invited to join the Board of Directors of Burberry.

Burberry has tapped veteran retailer and private equity partner Ron Frasch as a member of its board of directors. He will serve as a non-executive director and a member of the remuneration and nomination committee, with effect from September.

Frasch is an operating partner at the Newton, Mass.-based private equity firm Castanea Partners. His focus is on the luxury space, which includes apparel, accessories, footwear and jewelry.

Frasch is also joining Burberry as it rethinks its strategy in the U.S., where it has a mix of wholesale and retail outlets. Sales have been shrinking in the region due to a variety of factors.

BRANQUINHO QUITS FASHION

Just a few sentences to say it is the end. Véronique Branquinho, who had successfully relaunched her feminine ready-to-wear brand five years ago, announces the ending clap.

The Belgian designer created her own couture house in 1998, parading for the first time in Paris at the age of 24. Alone at the head of her company, affected by the financial crisis, she had to stop her ready-to-wear collections (woman and man) for the first time in 2009.

In 2012, she started again with the women’s line in Spring-Summer 2013 thanks to Onward Luxury Group (ex-Gibò), which had always continued to produce its line of shoes. The European subsidiary of the Japanese group Onward, a reference in Italy for the production and distribution of very high-end collections, holds Jil Sander. Continue reading

CASTA AND GARREL IN LUMIO

Louis Garrel and Lætitia Casta got married last Saturday in the village of Lumio in Corsica, where Jacques Mouclier once had his house, located a few kilometers from Calvi. The Village is hanging on the Corsican mountain facing the citadel of Calvi where it is said that Admiral Nelson would have lost his eye.

Paris Match reminds us that Lætitia Casta owns a villa in Lumio in which her grandmother worked as a housekeeper. This marriage took everyone’s attention because the two stars were present at the same time at the last Cannes Film Festival, but did not want to climb the stairs of the palace of the festivals together.

Who is Louis Garrel, Laetitia Casta’s new husband? This 39-year-old comedian is the son of film director Philippe Garrel, and regularly plays  in French independent films. He has never played in big blockbusters, but has nevertheless managed to create a solid career. Continue reading