Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
THE COCO HEDI SLIMANE
The departure of star designer Hedi Slimane, replaced by Michael Rider. The rumor was circulating during Paris Fashion Week: on Wednesday, the LVMH group brand announced the departure of its designer, who will be succeeded by a relatively unknown American in the industry, again Wintour behind this. Continue reading
VUITTON THE MIDDLE AGES GOTHIC
With a patchwork of trunks as a podium, we thought Nicolas was packing his bags, he who transformed the iconic Vuitton trunk into a “Chiquito” for supermarket bimbos. Yesterday, I saw a strange world, that of the unreal empire of the irrational, on the edge of the realm of the night, of a house more than a hundred years old. I saw an ancient world, a blurred reflection of the past, and a fairground of memories that have sprung from the waves of a path of suitcases.
Jackets with balloon sleeves, striped capri pants and skirts with sequined fringes that give me no emotion in a world without echo and whose horizon is so dreary. I saw the nascent city of apostates, sectarians and iconoclasts materialize before my eyes. They adorn these models not with one bag, but with two to always increase sales.
BALENCIAGA VERY NEGLIGEE
Demna should silence the critics who complain that he has no new strings to his bow with his spring 2025 collection for Balenciaga, which opened with a series of underwear looks in his own way: embroidered, encrusted, or jacquard-knitted garters, bras, and stockings over flesh-colored bodysuits. Continue reading
RICK OWENS PARIS 2025
It was indeed deeply moving and uplifting as a demonstration of unity, diversity, dignity, and defiance that Rick Owens described his spring 2025 men’s show as being like watching a biblical epic by Cecil B. DeMille.
He cast real people of all shapes and sizes in his women’s show on Thursday, culled from fashion schools and his own company. Facial tattoos and piercings seemed to be preferred. Continue reading
CHLOÉ GAME SET AND MATCH
COURREGES THE COLORS OF THE INVISIBLE
PRESSIA PARIS 2025
A precise image that we recognize at first glance: elegant and… provocative. A depraved bourgeois. The night is a space of freedom, I worked a lot in the cabaret, as a room driver, he tells us, it looked like a Studio 54 type route, people were stylish, I like this show time side.
GUCCI THE DUKE OF GENOA
PRADA NO COUNTRY FOR OLD MIUCCIA
The man who didn’t like women continues his vacation by imposing his non-talent at Prada. This is the story of the thousand failures of the one who doesn’t like women. He is like La Fontaine: his couture is affable, but with the only test he has, to his credit, in fashion, that is to say his urine tests, they can’t ask for more from him.
This ambitious ascetic of the fashion sphere, who had mistreated the Dior brand in his time, this ‘Politico-media’ heterogeneous and without real talent, remains the shadow of Miuccia Prada. Desire for movement and energy, without being able to achieve it, he plays with confetti and redesigns the models of yesteryear from the 70s. For me, between the guillotine and Raf’s work, I always prefer the guillotine.
ANDERSON DYNAMIC DRESSING
This JW Anderson collection is young, dynamic and fun, built around simple cuts, window-dressing prints and tutu-like protuberances, you have to find something! The models crossed a vaulted room of light, passing between rows of white cubic seats, they are shod in speckled leather low boots with zippers, which were a hit, but not to be smoked.
The Irishman likes to tease the eye and tickle the minds of journalists by transposing the archetypes and details of clothing such as the dragonfly and its metamorphosis, as well as a purse that has become the main detail of a handbag, each own “Chiquito” in the end. A gray hoodie, with a photorealistic print on a silk sheath dress, and a large leather clasp on the neck, an imposing detail on a short raincoat, but it’s sunny in New York.
DI PETSA 2025 LONDON
LAQUAM SMITH 2025 NEW YORK
This poetic monster is one of those animals that are generally called “MY HONEY!” that is to say a woman with a husband chained to his legitimate wife like a beast, and looks longingly at the menu that he will never have, here is the brief summary of the collection of Monsieur Smith.
A FECAL MATTER INFLUENCER
A Fecaloid woman, and for those who read me, a bimbo named Fecal Matter! Incredible, right? Here is the scatological letter from Madame Palatine, sister-in-law of Louis XIV, great-grandmother of Marie-Antoinette! So, you can imagine that scatological texts are not reserved solely for this new generation.
“You are very happy to go shit whenever you want. So shit all your dog drunk. We are not the same here, where I am obliged to keep my turd for the evening. There is no rubbing (toilet) in the houses on the forest side. I have the misfortune of living in one, and consequently, the sorrow of going to shit outside, which annoys me, because I like to shit at my leisure, and I don’t shit at my leisure when my ass is not touching anything. Everyone sees us shitting; men, women, girls, boys, abbots and Swiss people pass by. You see by that that no pleasure without pain, and that, if we didn’t shit, I would be in Fontainebleau like a fish in water.”
PHILLIP LIM NEW YORK 2025
SARAH BURTON THE McQUEEN GIRL
Sarah Burton has been named Givenchy’s new creative director, and she will show her first designs in March 2025. The acclaimed Burton, who spent her entire career at Alexander McQueen, becomes the French maison’s eighth designer since it was founded in 1952.
LOUIS VUITTON CUP OF SEA
GAME SET AND DIAMS
For the second year in a row, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton is opening a pop-up shop at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. The pop-up will be open through September.
The pop-up celebrates Tiffany Co.’s heritage in crafting sports trophies. There will be replicas of the U.S. Open Men’s and Women’s Singles Championship Trophies that the fine jeweler has crafted since 1987. The trophies are created by expert silversmiths at Tiffany & Co.’s workshop in Cumberland, R.I.
There will also be a unique Elsa Peretti Diamonds by the Yard tennis racket displayed with a leather cover painted by artisans using the ancient Japanese technique called “inden.” Continue reading
BETTY PASSED AWAY AT 96
Betty Halbreich, died Saturday in Manhattan she was 96. In addition to her discerning eye and impeccable taste, she charmed the many celebrity and typically affluent shoppers she met regularly, as well as her colleagues, and was considered an institution at Bergdorf Goodman. A native of Chicago, Halbreich was also a best-selling author.
She joined Bergdorf’s as a sales associate in 1976. The store created a personal shopping office for her upon her suggestion. Bergdorf Goodman, which is part of the Neiman Marcus Group, continues to maintain one of the strongest reputations in the retail industry for lavish, high-touch service.
WHEN MARCO POLO VISITED CATHAY
Sephora is cutting jobs in China, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned company confirmed on Wednesday. The beauty retailer, which has operated in China since 2004, is cutting its workforce by 3%, or about 120 jobs, amid a slowing economy in China, which is not a major issue for a population of 1.4 billion.
Given the challenging market environment, the company is streamlining its organizational structure to ensure long-term sustainable growth in China. Over the past two years, Sephora has launched Anastasia Beverly Hills, Hourglass and Tatcha in China, to positive reviews. The launches of Drunk Elephant and Fenty came in May, but were less popular.
But one of the things about China is that when it comes back, you have to be nimble, and it will come back very quickly. It was reported earlier this week that Estée Lauder Cos. expects further declines in prestige beauty in China next year, while North America is also weakening.