MARGIELA PARIS 2018

The designer John Galliano added his dose of cinematic fantasy plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe. Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.

Skeletal structure in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.

The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt. Continue reading

MARIO AND WINTOUR DIVORCE

Face to allegations of sexual exploitation and harassment, Fashion brands and magazine titles quickly decided to stop working with famed photographers Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.

During the men’s fashion show in Milan, speculation raged over other well-known photographers who might be caught up in the scandal. Sexual exploitation and harassment has long been known to take place during fashion shoots for the last several decades, but unfortunately both brands and magazine editors have generally turned a blind eye to it.

Both Testino and Weber made their careers and fortunes on shooting ad campaigns. Last Saturday, both Michael Kors and Stuart Weitzman said they would no longer be working with Testino on future advertising campaigns. Continue reading

ZALANDO DRUGSTORE & ROLF

Viktor & Rolf are taking their conscious couture philosophy to a wider audience with a collection for Zalando that is made from left over clothing.

It also marks the debut of Zalando’s new recycle project, which is aimed at raising awareness around sustainability in fashion and consumption.

“We have been working on the idea of recycling for a couple of seasons in our couture shows in various ways, and we feel quite strongly about it. We said to ourselves it would be so great to take this to a bigger audience. It was great fun to think about ways to translate a couture idea into a ready-to-wear idea, and to have it industrially produced.” Continue reading

ALIBABA AND THE 40 CHINESES

Xinhua, CEO of Chinese giant Alibaba, will soon sign an agreement with Paris to install a logistics center in France and to increase the sale of French products on its trading platforms online.

“We are planning to open a logistics center in France, we are currently looking for a site and partners,” said the founder of the Chinese number one of the e-commerce, on the sidelines of the meeting between French and Chinese presidents, Emmanuel Macron and Xi Jinping, at the People’s Palace in Beijing.

Jack Ma met Emmanuel Macron last Tuesday morning with also Richard Liu, boss of JD.com, number two of the Chinese e-commerce, which also announced to want to set up in France and promised to sell for 2 billion euros of French products on its platforms within two years. Continue reading

TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION LONDON

Graeme Gaughan, Tourne de Transmission’s creative director, returned to foreign cultures for fall 2018, the inspiration material that fueled his rise on the men’s wear scene. “I got a bit distracted in the last few seasons, this season it was images in photographer Lee Gordon’s book, “Kanaval: Vodou, Politics and Revolution on the Streets of Haiti,” that galvanized his return to form.

Jacmel’s Carnival celebrations are famous across Haiti, and every year thousands of partygoers descend on the city to take part in this fantastic spectacle. Jacmel turns into one giant street theater for the event: it’s a world away from the sequins and sparkle of Carnival in Rio de Janeiro.

Gordon’s images of the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti, in the Nineties depict men smeared in paint or mud wearing dresses, and children in ill-fitting suits gathered to reenact a grisly story from their history. Continue reading

FASHION CAMPAIGNS 2018

Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Calvin Klein Jeans, Kaia Gerber, 16 and Presley Gerber, 18, children of Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber.

Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Dior, Dior’s spring campaign features Sasha Pivovarova, the model and artist who opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring runway show wearing a T-shirt printed with the title of Linda Nochlin’s essay, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” Continue reading

TRUMP TAX A BOOM FOR LVMH

The $1.5 trillion overhaul of the U.S. tax system that President Trump signed into law just before Christmas has put retailers and fashion brands into an unfamiliar situation with some extra cash coming and incentives to put it to work.

The experts agree that legislating a much-lower corporate tax rate, falling to 21 percent from about 35 percent, will give the corporate world of fashion a significant boost and might well help workers, too. The biggest beneficiaries will be U.S.-domiciled corporations that derive a majority of profits in the U.S.

Among the biggest gainers will be the department store operators such as Nordstrom Inc., Kohl’s Corp. and Macy’s Inc., which derive essentially all their profits from the U.S. It has been estimated that the tax overhaul would boost Nordstrom’s earnings per share 25.5 percent for 2018, while Kohl’s may gain 22 percent and Macy’s take would increase by 21 percent. Continue reading

LI EDELKOORT REPLACES COLETTE?

Having first opened a private art salon in Paris more than three decades ago, Trend Union Founder, Li Edelkoort, will soon take her career full circle by unveiling a public design gallery in her company’s headquarters.

Set to open its doors Jan. 18 at 30 Boulevard Saint-Jacques, the space will showcase design and arts and crafts. To that end, a Heartwear pop-up shop will be among the planned events.

With the assistance of department stores and magazines, Heartwear develops high-level goods with broader distribution. The nonprofit’s aim is to create a lasting connection with a collective or region. Khadi cotton from India and indigo-colored textiles from Benin are two of the projects that have been executed. To try to help the specific regions become self sustainable, profits are reinvested in those where the artists are based. Continue reading

WHAT NEXT PHILOSOPHY

According to a source with knowledge of the matter, Philo will not work for another label in the near future and her successor at the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house will be named in the coming months.

She wants to take a break, as she has done in the past, after resigning from Chloé in 2006 and noting the emphasis she places on her private life. The fall 2018 collection to be presented in March, as well as pre-fall presented in January, will be the last collections crafted by the designer for the brand, who leaves the company in January.

In the interim, the label’s collections will be designed by Céline teams, “in keeping with the craftsmanship the house is renowned for,”. Continue reading

DEMMA GVASALIA SPITITUS

With irony you can ask questions that are delicate, but there’s a thin line between irony and sarcasm so I have to be careful not to overstep it. I made a bag for my first men’s show at Balenciaga, which was based on the classic Ikea bag. It was ironic but also authentic.

I used the blue Ikea bag during my four years as a student in Antwerp, due to its size and its price. Fifty percent of all students had the same bag for the same reasons, When I did it at Balenciaga I recycled leather that the company had on stock from previous collections, and I finished it as a luxury product. I meant it as an ironic gesture in part, taking something really cheap and moving it into the luxury realm. But it’s authentic too, and that’s why it’s been all over the internet by now. People can relate. Continue reading

MIREN ARZALLUZ

Congratulation to the Spanish Director Miren Arzalluz who has just been appointed at the head of Palais Gelliera.

She has a dozen years of experience in fashion conservation to the position, including eight years at the helm of the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation. She has a fashion history degree from the Courtauld Institute of Art in London and worked on a number of fashion exhibits over the years, including “Fashion Mix.”

The Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, whose the french Parisian calls “Notre Drame de Paris” is delighted to welcome a compatriote. We wish her good luck and hope she will be the new “luz” light of the museum. Continue reading