LVMH DRAWS CROWDS IN PARIS

The long queues in front of leading luxury stores in Paris this weekend might suggest they were holding the high-end equivalent of a Black Friday sale.

But the crowds gathered outside Dior headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, the Guerlain flagship on Avenue des Champs-Elysées or the Chaumet salons on Place Vendôme weren’t looking to part with any cash  just to catch a glimpse behind the scenes of some of the 70 brands that form LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

The event is the brainchild of Antoine Arnault, head of communication and image of LVMH, who launched the biennial initiative in 2011 to counter a perception that the group was only interested in making money.

Antoine Arnault launched the event with a cocktail party on Thursday at the group’s headquarters in front of the new building “the Good Samaritan” where he posed with his father the lord of Luxury, LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard the Great. Continue reading

FASHION PRE-FALL NEWS

Donatella Versace will hold her Versace pre-fall collection in New York on Dec. 2 at 7 p.m. The date has a special meaning for the designer, as it is her late brother Gianni’s birthday. Details about the location are being kept under wraps.

The decision to show in New York was made before the acquisition of the company last month by Michael Kors Holdings Ltd.. In a $2.1 billion deal, Versace joined the Kors and Jimmy Choo brands under the Michael Kors Holdings umbrella, which is renaming itself Capri Holdings to reflect the growing and changing group.

The first week of December is shaping up as quite a fashionable one, as Chanel has scheduled its Métiers d’Art collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Dec. 4, as reported.

Other brands are bringing their pre-fall collections outside national borders. As reported, Valentino will hold a runway show in Tokyo on Nov. 27 to present its men’s and women’s pre-fall 2019 collection together for the first time, and Dior plans to stage its first men’s pre-fall runway show with a collection designed by Kim Jones scheduled to bow in Tokyo on Nov. 30.

SOPHIE BROCART AT PATOU

Louis Vuitton has named Sophie Brocart, chief executive officer of Jean Patou, signaling its commitment to reviving the dormant fashion house under the creative direction of Guillaume Henry.

Sidney Toledano, chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group, welcomed her appointment, which confirms the group’s commitment to promoting talents from within its own ranks. “With Guillaume Henry, a talented designer, Sophie is charged with reviving this iconic house, which marked the history of fashion and fragrance. I wish her great success,” he said in a statement.

Brocart has been a key behind-the-scenes talent scout at LVMH, where she has mentored the winners of the annual LVMH Prize for Young Designers. She has also held positions at the group’s headquarters, and at brands including Louis Vuitton and Celine. Continue reading

EMPLOYEE A LUXURY CHALLENGE

“With 70 brands and 150,000 staff worldwide, there’s no doubt that LVMH, the parent company of brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior, Guerlain, Bulgari and others…, is a global corporate

But even a fashion force like LVMH cannot rest on its laurels when it comes to recruiting and retaining staff, especially at a time when unemployment in the U.S. is hovering at a near 50-year low of 3.7 percent.

“Recruiting right has always been difficult. “From store level up to ceo’s, having the right people translates immediately into good results”.

So, yes, it’s an obsession and of course we are trying to not only find, but then help keep employees motivated and offer them a journey. A career which could be a journey thanks to the size of the group the fact that we have over 70 brands.” Continue reading

BRUNO SIALELLI AT LANVIN

Could Lanvin, said to be searching for new designer, have its eye on a hidden talent? The French house is in talks with Bruno Sialelli, who recently exited Loewe, where he was head of men’s wear. The likelihood of the house and the designer securing an agreement could not immediately be learned. Lanvin could not immediately be reached for comment.

Sialelli had been at Loewe since March 2016. Before that, he held senior design roles in women’s wear at Paco Rabanne, Acne Studios and Balenciaga. He is a fashion graduate of Studio Berçot in Paris.

Finding a new design and management leadership has been job number one for Fosun International, which acquired the French luxury house in February. Continue reading

ZOBEL PRICE FOR COURREGES

We were packed like sardines in Courrèges store located rue Francois 1er pumped with music and with people in a democratic move for crowd control. It was all standing, which also meant it was difficult to see her newly promised vision. Or, as the show notes states : “How the future is behind you.” This could also mean : let forget the past to free her of the specific codes of the house which built its name and aesthetic on space age. Then perhaps the cagoules and techno festival looks that came out made sense.

It was certainly as capsule and conceptual as Zobel’s predecessors, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant – the first official designers of the house since André Courrèges and his wife sold the company in 2011.

There was only so far a series of jackets and knickers could take them, which is where, one imagines, this may end up too if Zobel doesn’t give us something more, something real that can be worn and resonates with today’s audience. Because this is what heritage houses seem to be struggling with right now. Who are they targeting and why? What is the house all about and why? What was the point of it even to begin with? How does that meet in the middle with a customer? Continue reading

EXCLUSIVE LVMH HOTEL IN PARIS

An exclusive hotel in Paris opened his doors for Canal-luxe.

This morning at 8 o’clock, the futur Cheval Blanc Hotel of LVMH opened its east side doors (the sun always rises on the east)  to Canal-Luxe. We were all excited to discover the fabulous Art Deco building better known by the parisian by La Samaritaine.

A decade ago, the group LVMH bought the department store, La Samaritaine to build which would be soon become the next place of the luxe. It was a long process to come to the end of that project. But as we already stated a few years ago: Paris downtown will soon belong to Monsieur Bernard Arnault and to his group LVMH. He has regrouped around la Samaritaine most of his most famous brands. It would soon become the new golden place for shopping in Paris. Continue reading

VUITTON BALANCIAGA’S 1067 

Nicolas Ghesquière tapped into his obsessions with sci-fi imagery and garment construction with a collection designed to empower women.

Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.

“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”

He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with mille feuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.

With its echoes of “Star Wars” and Pink Floyd’s “Dark Side of the Moon” album cover, the imagery was reminiscent of Ghesquière’s work at Balenciaga in particular the curved white hats that looked like shrunken versions of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s futuristic 1967 wedding veil. Continue reading

CHANEL BAYWATCH

It was a grey autumnal day in Paris. But at the Chanel show in the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld ensured that summer stuck around for a bit longer. The designer, who previously brought a Chanel supermarket and a rocket bearing the brand’s signature double “C” logo to fashion week, doesn’t do things by half.

This time, a beach was recreated that included an ocean with gentle waves, blue sky, wooden docks and lifeguards. To complete the scene, the former Baywatch actor Pamela Anderson watched the proceedings from the front row. Continue reading

CATWALK ON WATER CLOSET

Traffic literally stopped. After the Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, it is L’oréal which halted the traffic on the River, the Seine. In front of the Musée d’Orsay and Tuileries gardens, and on a footbridge, people gazed at a floating, 195-foot-long catwalk.

It was about to spring to life with the L’Oréal Paris fashion-beauty show dubbed Le Défilé L’Oréal Paris billed as a celebration of beauty, fashion and diversity.

Eva Longoria appeared on a big screen to psyche up the audience. Two drones whirred overhead, and music pumped out of giant speakers as a barge parked parallel to the runway. Nothing really interesting as usual. They use the Fashion Week audience to make a buzz.

Anonymode

HERMES AT LONG CHAMP

Hermès held its spring show at the Longchamp racecourse, as did Dior earlier in the week, just to tease Mister Arnault. The two houses made very different uses of the venue. If Dior was your rich gypsy aunt who reads Tarot cards and loves modern dance, Hermès was her richer, snobbier sister, for whom tastefulness is next to godliness. She’s not as much fun as the bohemian, but her cashmere is softer, her Champagne is crisper and you can put money on her horse it always seems to win. Continue reading