MARYLING MILAN 2019
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MAX MARA MILAN 2019
The fall collection was an exploration of some of them, including monochromatic dressing, statement coats in wider, shorter, boxier silhouettes, leggy skirts, and thigh-high Wonder Woman-worthy boots that recalled the Nineties, while managing to avoid falling into the too-retro trap.
The miniskirt looked fresh, especially in nylon with utility zipper details, and worn with a blouson top. So did the long trouser skirt under a bomber jacket. Reaching into the archives, Griffiths created prints from past designers’ sketches for the house, including one from the dearly-departed Karl Lagerfeld, who worked for Max Mara for two years in the Seventies. And while the idea was certainly dress to impress, he nodded to the comfort revolution with a sweatshirt with utility pouch detail, sensible belt bags and a renewed focus on knitwear in the same spirit as the brand’s snuggly coats, namely fuzzy, oversized sweaters and animal-patterned sweater dresses. Continue reading
ALBERTA FERRETTI MILAN 2019
KARL LAGERFELD DIES IN PARIS
One of the most influential and celebrated designer of the 21st century and an iconic, universal symbol of style. There are no words to express how much he will be missed.
Lagerfeld worked tirelessly until the end, giving instructions to his teams for the Fendi fall ready-to-wear collection, due to take place in Milan on Thursday. The only sign of his declining health was his failure to take a bow at Chanel’s recent couture show in January.
He was most closely associated with the French fashion house, where he was couturier since 1983, engineering one of the modern fashion industry’s first and most successful brand rejuvenations and propelling the fabled French name from near obscurity to the summit of international luxury.
Lagerfeld was also the creative force behind the furs and rtw at Fendi for more than half a century, of Chloé from the Sixties into the Nineties and of his signature fashion house, which encompassed everything from designer rtw to jeans and fragrance over the years. Continue reading
JW ANDERSON LONDON FASHION
SIMONE ROCHA LONDON 2019
Their head-held-high attitudes proved that Rocha’s collection of full-skirted belted coats and dresses isn’t meant only for girls.
Looking more closely at the clothes the organza see-through layers of trench coats, the bodices and bras caught in deshabille, the bloomers glimpsed in the back-views of skirts it was obvious that there was something deeper going on beneath the surface.
There was a something dark lurking within her research. The collection was an honoring of Rocha’s formative attachment to the work of Louise Bourgeois, whose themes in themselves were also a startlingly honest struggle between tenderness and sexuality, often expressed in fabrics and textiles. The spiderweb embroideries and prints Rocha used on her puffball coats and dresses were made in collaboration with the Louise Bourgeois Foundation. Continue reading
BLACK FAKE FOR GUCCI CEO
The Gucci ceo was in New York Wednesday evening for the Marvin Traub Lecture. What was meant to be an interview spanning his career and his tenure at Gucci became heavily dominated by talk of the fashion house’s recent faux pas a balaclava-style sweater that critics said evoked blackface.
“Gucci is often in the news for their extraordinary commercial success, but also for their commitments to communities around the world.
Explanation of what went wrong, telling the audience that the sweater was debuted at a February 2018 show, but “nothing happened” until it was recently linked to blackface on Twitter, which sparked the social media storm.
He admitted that when his team first told him about this, he didn’t know what they were talking about, which he puts down to ignorance on his behalf. Continue reading
MICHAEL KORS WINTER 2019 NEW YORK
THE RETURN OF THE PANTHER
Animal prints, like camo patterns, seem to be a style that will never completely wither away. They might go away for a while, come back unnoticed in subtle touches here and there, but eventually, they always resurface in full (visual) force. If the question comes up among editors or younger crowds, it is often mentioned that the look is overdone and not so subtle, by times associated with a style proudly boasted by lower and higher peripheries of a socio-economic spectrum. Continue reading
JOSEPH ABBOUD N.Y FASHION WEEK
Joseph Abboud (born May 5, 1950) is an American menswear fashion designer and author.Abboud was born in Boston, Massachusetts. The Abboud family was a working-class Lebanese Maronite Catholic family that started out in the South End of Boston, and later moved to Roslindale. Abboud’s father,Joseph worked in a candy factory and his mother, Lila, was a seamstress. He had one sister, Nancy Ash. On a trip to Australia, Abboud discovered that his great-grandfather had owned Australia’s largest canine-clothing company.
Abboud graduated from the University of Massachusetts-Boston in 1972, then studied at the Sorbonne in Paris, where he grew to love the sophisticated polish of European style. While in high school, he worked first for Thom McAn dyeing women’s shoes and then the Anderson-Little men’s store, where he sold suits. As a college student, he worked part-time at Louis Boston. Abboud stated: “Louis Boston was a huge part of my career. Continue reading
VOROZHBYT & ZEMSKOVA KIEV 2019
KIEV
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
The appeal of the Copenhagen fashion girl, often found riding a colorful bicycle and sporting pearl-encrusted hair clips, is here to stay.
Apart from charming the world with their flair for candy colors, cozy decorating and quirky accessories, the Danes mean business: Pioneers in the contemporary category, they are experts at offering trendy, fuss-free pieces at what they refer to as; honest price points. Now, they are ready to shift up a gear.
Sustainability in Denmark is less marketing ploy and more a way of life, so when Copenhagen Fashion Week’s newly appointed chief executive officer Cecilie Thorsmark laid out her ambitious plan of turning the three-day showcase into the most sustainable international fashion week, she found that local and international brands were quick to align with her mission.
British label Mother of Pearl opened Copenhagen Fashion Week, which ran from Jan. 29 to Feb. 1, with an intimate presentation of its seasonless, sustainably made range. Creative director Amy Powney said the growth of the brand in the Scandinavian market and customers; engagement with its sustainability mission encouraged her to get more involved. By showcasing a seasonless range, the idea was to make a statement that collections don’t need to be new to be exciting. Continue reading
DOLCE & GABBANA KNOCKOFFS IN CHINATOWN
In visiting a labyrinth of malls in Flushing, Queens New York City’s largest Chinatown we find various dresses imitating Dolce’s Sicilian-homemaker after-midnight attitude as well as knockoffs of its signature logo.
This just two months after remarks about Chinese culture were posted on social media by designer Stefano Gabbana that many Chinese found insulting and forced the abrupt cancellation of the brand’s fashion show planned in Shanghai. In the time since, blue-chip Chinese retailer Lane Crawford has dropped the label, while numerous high-profile Chinese celebrities have pledged to never again purchase or promote the brand. Continue reading
SORBIER POETRY AND HAUTE COUTURE
Poetry and Haute Couture are the highlights of Franck Sorbier presentation, the unique and exclusive Paris Fashion show and those who attended belong to the Paris intelligentsia.
The fashion poet, who is on the edge of exceptional creation, reinvents the Haute couture at each collection, to the extent that large fashion companies such as Dior or Karl at Chanel’s copy the Fashion show process and has dictated to the other fashion designers.
Tenacity and passion can overcome any financial obstacles – to note that today Franck Sorbier is the only designer to realize himself his collection of Haute Couture, without having to call for dressmakers.
The others draw their collection and then give what they have conceived to dressmakers named in France “petites mains”. I must say that it is very sad not to even participate in the manufacture of its creations and being able to feel the material in his hands. Continue reading