SEPTEMBRE2014

VUITTON’S SOUL DIED

carcellediedYves Carcelle, the charismatic executive Director who transformed Louis Vuitton from a staid French maker of handbags and travel trunks into one of the world’s most recognizable luxury brands, died on Sunday in Paris. He was 66 year old. The French media reported that Mr. Carcelle learned last year that he had kidney cancer.

Mr. Carcelle, who was promoted to the top post at the Louis Vuitton brand in 1990 and later ran LVMH’s fashion division, was the architect of an aggressive expansion into Asia and other international markets that elevated leather goods emblazoned with Louis Vuitton’s distinctive LV logo into one of fashion’s most coveted status symbols. In 1997, he gave the brand further impetus by recruiting Marc Jacobs to design shoes and ready-to-wear clothing for Louis Vuitton, which also added watches, jewelry and other accessories. Read more »

DIANE’S PERFUMES

dianepernetDiane Pernet, the American journalist and blogger, has been the sensational special guest of this edition of Unscent. She presented a soft launch of the three perfumes she has created with Intertrade as well as a special preview of new short films from the ASVOFF festival dedicated to independent cinema, of which she is the founder and curator. One year ago, Madame Pernet met Celso Fadelli that proposed that she develops her own perfume collection. Diane was enthusiastic about it and they started working together with the Intertrade Team of master perfumers for several months, before finding the perfect combination of ingredients for each fragrance. A journey into sensations, atmospheres and Diane’s memories made this encounter of two true creative minds a new chapter in the history of perfumes.

There are notes of myrrh, black pepper, cedar wood, patchouli, vetyver, leather and amber. Desired instead is the pure reminiscent of an Read more »

POWERFUL FASHION FAMILIES

LOGOThe Arnaults, LVMH
Bernard Arnault’s business savvy is clearly genetic—his two children, Delphine and Antoine (who is married to Natalia Vodianova) are carrying on the business dealings of the French conglomerate alongside their father.

Arnault is a well-known art collector and is known for his contemporary collection, which includes pieces like Picasso, Perpentilan Duniawi, Yves Klein, Henry Moore and Andy Warhol.

The Pinaults, Kering
PPR, now known as Kering, was founded in 1963 by businessman François Pinault. His son François-Henri Pinault joined the Pinault Group in 1987, where he held positions in several of the Group’s operating businesses before joining the executive board. In 2000, he became deputy CEO of Kering, which owns Gucci, Balenciaga and McQueen, among other famous labels. Pinault is married to the glamour actress Selma Hayek.

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THE V BY VUITTON

LV2The V, no less, features prominently in the fifth Haute Couture jewelry collection from Louis Vuitton on show at their Place Vendome location after the fashion week. Set designs from the Art Deco period, including an iconic Louis Vuitton case, set the scene for the collection, which found some of its inspiration in this period.

Old sketch books from the house, showing perfume bottles or a Trapeze artist in mid flight are also on show next to the high-finished jewels in diamonds and brilliant stones.

Cuff bracelets which were a favorite feature during the period is one item featured in the collection inspired by an avante-garde aesthetic from the time and the idea of women traveling and breaking free. Chunky rings are another.

For this house’s fifth high jewelry collection, an 87.92 Australian black opal is the cornerstone of the collection. Other stones include red Tanzanian spinel and Burmese sapphires.

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FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER

PHOTOGRAPHERBorn in Toronto, Canada, where he grew up, Benjamin Kanarek fell in to many things by accident. Photography, Web Concept development and Creative Direction are just a few examples.

He played drums in a few punk rock groups, one of which was the “Existers” with the single “Telex Love”, another, “the Poles” with Canadian Fine Artist Michaele Jordana. In the subsequent time frame, he entered Read more »

WIRED EMBROIDERY

hinkeStarting with vintage photography and illustrations of sporting fashion models from the 1950s, the Amsterdam-based artist Hinke Schreuders applies a rich layer of hand-stitched embroidery, beading, lace, and flourishes of ink to entirely new images that can be both unsettling and exuberant. The pieces seen here are part of an ongoing series called “Works on Paper”, started in 2008. Schreuders says she seeks to “subtly confuse notions of feminine vulnerability and reinforce the position of embroidery as an artistic medium.” Something I think we can all agree she has done masterfully.

Schreuders recently exhibited at Robert Mann gallery “The Embroiderederd Image” which brought together almost a dozen artists currently working at the interesection of photography and embroidery or textiles. She’ll have more work on view in Amsterdam next month at both “We Like Art and Amsterdam Drawing 2014″. Read more »

JAMES BOND STREET

FENDITo celebrate the opening of its new London store in New Bond Street, Fendi asked ten women to customize the famous iconic bag “Peekaboo.” It was an outstanding evening as Karl Lagerfeld stayed for dinner as well as Kara Delevingne and many other celebrities of the London society.

Karl Lagerfeld, always equal to itself, said about these ten designs: “for a woman a bag is a vital accessory and each bag is different as the contents of each bag is different.

Karl Lagerfeld’s vision, indoor / outdoor, reminds us that it is as beautiful inside as outside. Isn’t it?

FASHIONOUTSIDER

A GYPSETTER: TO BE OR NOT TO BE

gybsyGypsetters are artists, designers, and bons vivants who live and work around the globe. Wanderlust meets the height of sophistication as New York Times journalist Julia Chaplin explores the unconventional lives of these high-low cultural nomads and the bohemian enclaves they inhabit.

Julia Chaplin tells “I was doing a lot of traveling, writing for various newspapers and mags (New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, etc.) and gravitated to bohemian enclaves that were hard to reach and relatively undiscovered. But when I got to these towns and villages, there’d always be some groovy artist, surfer or fashion person that had figured it out years earlier.

They tended to have the coolest house on the best surf break. I began to see a pattern and realized a whole movement existed. These people were reacting against the jet set mode which had come to mean expensive, trendy hotels and tacky nightclubs in places like St. Tropez. In Sayulita, Mexico. I stayed with a French matrilineal clan, the Mignot sisters, and was very inspired by their carry-on lifestyle. They had a fleet of surfboards, a pack of cute kids, and a row of bedrooms and hammocks that were assigned on a first come, first served basis. Read more »

WOMEN’S WEAR DEAL

pcm

Today, Condé Nast announced its plans to sell the U.S.-based trade publishing assets of Fairchild Fashion Media (FFM) to Penske Media Corporation (PMC). The transaction includes business-to-business brands Women’s Wear Daily, Footwear News, Beauty Inc, M and the Fairchild Summits. Consumer brands Style.com and NowManifest will remain at Condé Nast. The deal is expected to close in September 2014 and financial terms and details were not disclosed. Gina Sanders, FFM president and CEO since January 2010, will be remaining at Advance Publications in a new role to be announced shortly. Employees of the acquired Fairchild assets will move to PMC with the sale.**

“Today’s announcement reflects our strategy of investing resources in Read more »

NEW PRADA COFFEE SHOP

prada2Amsterdam has now its own Prada flagship. It is located at the intersection of the luxury thoroughfare, Hoofdstad, and Honthorststraat. The new location expands on two floors, with retail space covering over 6,000 square feet.

The store offers womenswear, accessories for women and for men, women’s shoes and menswear. The Italian architect respected the designed code of Prada stores around the world : black checks, white marble and pale green walls. Read more »

ANTHONY VACCARELLO

ANTHONYVACCARELLO

LADIES LEATHER FASHION

 

BALMAIN2What is the common point between the fall-winter ready-to-wear collections for 2014-2015 from Anthony Vaccarello, Balenciaga, Balmain, Blumarine, Cedric Charlier, DKNY, Gucci, Guy Laroche, Jason Wu, Lanvin and Moschino ? All these brands rely on leather. On perfectos, dresses, skirts, belts, pants, chest protectors, Teddys, the skin is everywhere. It is used in super-soft variations, or can be rigid and sculptural. Leather means a return to natural materials and to manual labor from the past. It is combined with other materials such as fur, wool, big zips, cotton, cashmere and velvet.

On the whole, for this season, those designers have ignored print, except some Read more »

17AOUT14

POSTCARD FROM TORONTO

BALENCIAGA BODY OF PROOF

Balenciaga2 Have Fun on a Rainy Day.

Rainproof: There’s a retro charm to the new waterproofs, viewed – naturally enough – through fashion’s luxurious lens. Think old-school anoraks and parkas, made over in glossy rubber, smooth Neoprene and lush silk.

Winter poses no sartorial challenge now that fashion has braced itself for the big chill. The collections saw quilting expand beyond the padded jacket, bringing down-filled detail to tops, trousers and even gowns.

Winter poses no sartorial challenge now that fashion has braced itself for the big chill. The collections saw quilting expand beyond the Read more »

AN ICON OF FASHION DIED

laurenbacallLauren Bacall was one of the sexiest and most elegant stars of the 1940s and 1950s. On screen, she was often seen in sharp little suits and slinky evening gowns – which still look utterly fabulous today.

She was stunning at teaching Humphrey Bogart to whistle (“You just put your lips together and blow… “) in her debut movie To Have And Have Not, in 1944 when she was 19 years old.

One of her favorite fashion designer seems to be the French “couturier” Franck Sorbier. We recognize her taste for  the “bon goût”.

The one of my favourite publicity pictures of Lauren Bacall – one that looks as if it belongs to an Estee Lauder Read more »

GIRLS AND PEARLS

WAN3It is the mirror of luxury like a vision of our soul. It is the mirror of the self-sacrifice of people who constantly look for the perfect iconic black pearl. In this world the level of quality is constantly improving to reach the excellence which is never achieved. Oh my god! I’ll lose my life…

Yesterday, I discovered the most beautiful black pearls for women in the world. It is located in Paris closed to the place Vendôme. In a small black window, I saw a very powerful light beam which surrounded me and lead me for a couple of hours in the world of the South Seas.

If you want to live this experience, visit: http://www.robertwan.com/fr. 222 rue de Rivoli Paris districk 2, and discover the Read more »

BRILLIANT HAIRDRESSER

shot12 155Angelo began his career as a trainee Barber in his home town in Italy at the age of 11. Five years later he moved to Rome to take up a job with Toni & Guy, but he already had his sights firmly set on London.

Since 1995 Angelo Seminara became Trevor Sorbie’s protégé and International Creative Director. Angelo Seminara has captivated clients and inspired the work of hair professionals around the world with his creative drive and passion. In 2010 Angelo went freelance and has been working all over the world on shows and seminars. 15th January 2011 Angelo started as the new Art Director for Davines Spa.

He has also developed an incredible reputation on the catwalk circuit and his celebrity client list is impressive, but it hasn’t gone to his head, he maintains his gentle nature and carries with him an aura of calm. Angelo has always been absorbed Read more »

FASHION COLOR 2014

COLOR

The colors of 2014 are : blue, green, orange, yellow, pink and purple ? Designers and the fashion industry chose bright colors to face pessimism and the economic crise. Canal-Luxe.org analyses the colors of 2014. Read more »

OOZING FROM EVERY NAIL

louboutin2-240x3002Christian Louboutin’s preliminary venture into the beauty arena a crimson lacquer called Rouge Louboutin that boasts a black pointed cap eight inches tall (the same height as the heel on the Ballerina Ultima, a shoe he designed in collaboration with David Lynch for his exhibition aptly titled Fetish). The blood-red polish is dangerously sexy—similar to one of Louboutin’s stilettos.

Seeing as the iconic red sole was developed in 1992 after the designer ripped a bottle of scarlet nail polish from his assistant’s desk on a whim and painted the bottom of a prototype, it seems only appropriate that his launch into the already-saturated world of cosmetics would begin in much the same way. Never one to blend in, his extensive range of 30 additional shades—comprising three color families, all with caps clocking in at seven inches tall, dubbed The Pops (vivid cobalts, pinks, and greens), The Noirs (vampy hues), and The Nudes (varying tones of Read more »

AGENT INTERPROVOCATEUR

ProvocateurInterparfums has expanded its portfolio with the addition of the Agent Provocateur fragrance license, for the creation, production and distribution of the British lingerie brand’s fragrance. The first fragrance is expected to be released in 2014.

Agent Provocateur is a British lingerie retailer founded in 1994 by Joseph Corré and Serena Rees. The company has 30 stores in 13 countries. In 2007, 3i, the private equity firm, purchased 80% of the company for £60 million.

Agent Provocateur launched its first fragrance in 2001 under a license with Selective Beauty switching to a licensing agreement with Designer Parfums. Agent Provocateur products are currently sold at in 80 retail outlets across 30 countries.

In January 2014, the model Hailey Clauson is the focus of an ad campaign called “Behind Closed Doors,” which was photographed by Miles Aldridge.

FM

LUXOTICA MILANO

LUXETICAItalian luxury eyewear group Luxottica is optimistic for the rest of 2014 after sales accelerated in the second quarter, offsetting the impact of euro strength which is now seen waning. On Thursday, the world’s largest eyewear maker by revenue posted a 2.1 percent rise in second-quarter sales to 2.06 billion euros ($2.8 billions), broadly in line with a Thomson Reuters Smart Estimate.

Sales at the maker of Ray Ban and Oakley sunglasses rose 7 percent at constant exchange rates, picking up from January-March’s 4.2 percent increase as the North American market recovered after a harsh Winter that kept shoppers at home. North America accounts for more than half of group revenue.

The group has extended a licence agreement to produce and distribute Chanel-branded eyeglasses until the end of 2018, renewable for a further two years, the world’s largest eyewear maker by Read more »

VALENTIN YUDASHKIN

valentinFashion House «Valentin Yudashkin» – One of the leading Russian brands, very well-known in Russia, Ukraine, the Baltic states, the Caucasus. Since 1992 – He has been nominated Corresponding Member of the Association of Haute Couture in Paris for having fans and customers in Europe, America, India and the Arab world.

He came out to be well-known during the 1980s, dressing Raisa Gorbacheva. He is considered the first post-Soviet designer to bring a contemporary Russian look to the international fashion world, wowing critics with sumptuous theatricality as well as wearable styles.

His designs have been exhibited in museums such as the Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris, the California Museum of Fashion in Los Angeles, the Metropolitan Museum in New York, and the State Historical Museum in Moscow. In 2010, he redesigned Russia’s military uniforms, creating 85 designs to dress all branches of the Russian armed services. Nevertheless, the uniforms turned Read more »

A PENINSULA IN PARIS

CANALTOITFrom the top of the world, day after day, I watched the most beautiful hotel in the world to be build. May I remember you that it is there that in May 1922 James Joyce, Marcel Proust, Pablo Picasso, Igor Stravinsky and Serge Diaghilev who celebrates the premiere of his ballet Renard, were seeing each other.

It is also in this place that in 1928, George Gershwin composed the celebrated symphonic poem « An American in Paris ». It is again here that the Paris Agreement, which lead to the end of the Vietnam war, were signed in 1973. Finally it is still here that from 1936, the French government located UNESCO offices and from 1958 (till 2009), the French Foreign Minister held conferences.

To give you further information on the hotel we are expecting to be invited as we would like to report on the services and the palace.

Read more »

FASHION SHORT STORY

JMOUCLIER2A few decade ago, a journalist of the French television, which was called at the time the ORTF, Leon Zitrone, the French Dan Raiser, called me for arranging a meeting.

Leon Zitrone was a very charismatic journlalist. A Friday morning, he arrived and said : Mr Mouclier, Mr Dassault would like write several pages on French fashion in his magazine « Jour de France ».

I was very surprised that Marcel Dassault knew me and was interested by me. « Do not be surprised, Mr. Dassault knows everything and he knows you very well. He calls you the man of the fashion industry.

Marcel Dassault belonged to those captains of the French industry like Francis Bouygues or Largardère. We used to call them « Sirs ». They belonged to those gentlemen who have partly disappeared today to leave place to rednecks and who have no more consideration for anything except themselves. Read more »

ATELIER CUSTOMIZATION

Eric Charles DonatienJust when you thought that nothing new could be done with a shoe, there was a stiletto plumaseri. To my mind, the most amazing thing about shoes is that they were made in the sixties and seventies, to walk on a red carpets in the Dolce Vita years. Brigitte Bardot, Claudia Cardinale, Sophia Loren and Ava Gardner wore these shoes.

Would you like a new idea? How to make classic shoes becoming a footwear that looks like a real acessory. If you are looking for that kind of shoes and wish to wear an original pair of bespoken shoes we invite you to visit the

Parisian workshop of Eric Charles-Donatien
18 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud
75011 Paris

Tel: +33 1 42 60 97 88
Cell: +06 60 17 11 66

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