DIOR A GEOPOLITICAL HUMOUR
A brand representative showcased a map of China, which illustrated the number of stores in the country, but excluded the disputed region of Taiwan during a Dream in Dior internship program campus talk, according to a video, which began to surface on Weibo, China’s own Twitter.
When asked about why Taiwan was missing on the map by a university student, the representative responded: “I think it’s maybe because the picture is too small and Taiwan is too small.”
After that, the brand representative further explained the difference between mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan region, and stressed that the Hong Kong and Taiwan markets are not under their management. “Because we are in China, we look after mainland China,” the representative said. Continue reading
SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK DEEPLY DIFFERENT
When you are in Shanghai, the only thing you need to worry about is always keeping your phone charged and connected as everything passes through these devices, and without it you are lost.
What is different is the mindset. Their reality is filtered through the screen, while we still have pockets in real life. This environment really impacts the fashion system. First of all, the impact can be felt on the market and shopping, both of which function with completely different dynamics. Continue reading
HEMU SPRING SHANGHAI 2020
HEMU was founded in Shanghai, China in 2010, with Oriental element and humanity as the origin of design. It adheres to the belief of originality, zen and inheriting Oriental culture, and is committed to creating an excellent Chinese original designer brand. HEMU takes the vast Chinese culture as its design inspiration and adheres to a low-key and concise design attitude. Continue reading
C + PLUS OF CHINA
The waves of desire and poetry were present and counterbalanced the vulgarity that had sat beside me, an Afida, an error of nature, was a stain in the ambient poetry, but all the disgust is in nature. Among the birds, there are also crows and chickens.
A cape shirt for a breath of beauty, in these days of grey fashion week in the Middle Kingdom, I will want to say “The Middle of the Downer”. This young Japanese man, where the Samurai of sewing makes war on the beautiful, tries to interpret the human heart and uses the sounds of a 35-ton truck to express the most nuanced feelings. He wishes to evoke images that should resonate powerfully in our imagination, but that only resonate in the Gobi desert. Continue reading
FASHION WEEK SHANGHAI
In addition to the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has established itself as one of the most important fashion hubs in the East. Although the country’s best-known names such as Masha Ma and Uma Wang prefer to perform in Europe, Shanghai Fashion Week offers a platform for young independent labels such as Xuzhi, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.
It is also an opportunity for foreign journalists and buyers to discover new local talent and to engage in a massive but often complex market. Among the labels to watch in the coming days are Ximon Lee, Anaïs Jourden (from Hong Kong and regularly in Paris), Staff Only, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.
The Chinese scene of independent designers is young, but very lucrative, as young Chinese consumers are looking for local brands, which makes it Gen Z’s strong point.
Anonumode
A CHOO CAN HIDE A CHIC
Strictly speaking, Chinese art is understood as a European style of decoration whose origin expresses artistic exchanges between very distant civilizations and fundamentally different in their perception of the world. The term itself appeared in the French language around 1845, with a distinctly pejorative connotation that has long been disturbing. Continue reading
W.RONG SHANGHAI 2020
HONG KONG AND LVMH
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said sales rose 17 percent in the third quarter, fueled by rapid growth in fashion and leather goods. Sales totaled 13.32 billion euros in the three months ended Sept. 30, up 11 percent on an organic basis, the company said. Analysts had banked on a 9 percent rise in like-for-like revenues.
LVMH’s performance was driven by its key fashion and leather goods division, which includes Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi. It saw revenues rise by 19 percent on a like-for-like basis to 5.45 billion euros during the third quarter, again sharply exceeding consensus estimates.
Wines and spirits were up 8 percent, while perfumes and cosmetics recorded organic growth of 7 percent. Selective retailing, which includes duty free operator DFS and beauty retailer Sephora, grew 4 percent, and watches and jewelry posted a 5 percent increase. Continue reading
ONE BILLION BEAUTY DEAL OVER
Shiseido has acquired Drunk Elephant for $845 million. The deal underscores the Japanese buyer’s ambitions to globalize its beauty offerings, but also indicates that purchase prices for beauty brands may be calming down.
Industry sources had originally speculated that Drunk Elephant, a popular indie skin-care brand that was said to have about $100 million in net sales for 2018, could be sold for $1 billion or even more. The auction process was said to have attracted a slew of big-name bidders, including Colgate, L’Oréal and the Estée Lauder Cos.
Source said it was never clear where the $1 billion idea came from, but that with the Shiseido sale, Drunk Elephant has achieved one of the highest sales multiples for a beauty brand. Continue reading
KERING AND RICHMONT
During a visit to Kering Eyewear’s headquarters at the 17th-century Villa Zaguri here, about an hour away from Venice, Vedovotto spoke of the newly inaugurated logistics center unveiled by Kering chief François-Henri Pinault during Milan Fashion Week last month and provided an update on the performance of the company, which he set up in 2014, launching a new business model.
Today, Kering Eyewear develops and distributes collections for 15 brands: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Alaïa, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, McQ and Puma.
In March 2017, Compagnie Financière Richemont became a stakeholder in Kering Eyewear, which led to the production of Cartier eyewear. Collections for Montblanc, Courrèges and Balenciaga have been added since January. From 33 employees in December 2014, Kering Eyewear now has around 1,300 employees, of which 60 percent are women. Out of the total, 55 percent hail from countries outside Italy. Continue reading
CHANEL AT THE CONTEMPT OPERA
As a reminder of the links between Gabrielle and the world of dance, Chanel is a sponsor of the opening gala of the 2019/20 Paris Opera dance season, which was held last week. And it is clear that there are many uneducated people today! Indeed, the Paris Opera has paid tribute in its own way to Serge Lifar and rehabilitating within the choreographic heritage is that reasonable! The most controversial man after the war and the mix of genres between Coco Chanel, a great lover of “artistic” collaboration, did not surprise anyone! An educated person will probably have slipped the information into the hands of a “Dir Conne” who is infertile to culture.
It should be noted that when France signed the Armistice in 1940, Lifar chose to collaborate by becoming a great friend of the Nazi party. He became one of the “stars” of Parisian cultural and social life, and twenty times on the job he handed over his outrage, between German officers and collaborators with whom he was in contact, he congratulated Germany after the capture of Kiev. Continue reading
MARINE SERRE PARIS 2020
Last week in Longchamp, it was not the oil cat walk as Marine Serre had promised, but rather the Black Marine, and in addition to the rain falling on Paris as the new products of the LVMH group would. Here is the designer dressed by the Lord of Fashion Ring Bernard Arnault, for whom the red carpet was pulled out, and who unrolls his oil black carpet for us.
Being offered Longchamp before Dior, the Granville master would have been very upset. And all this for a very dull collection despite all the money spent and the advisers of the Lady of the Châtelet.
Dubbed “Marée Noire” (“Black Tide” in French), the collection is rife with signature Serre designs, updated with moody hues appropriate for the disquieting theme black jumpsuits, jackets and bags referenced both the oil that hastens environmental shifts and the shades worn by protestors, while splashes of red are an ode to drawn blood. Tiny, delicate bags and clutched pooches hint at bourgeoisie ladies escaping mutating landscapes, while tailored suiting is upended by tonal camouflage and towel-like textiles, speaking to the utilitarian needs of a post-apocalypse society. Continue reading
ONCE UPON A TIME IN VUITTON
The Vuitton show this season started an hour later than usual, just after the sun set on the plastic tent erected in the courtyard of the Louvre. The brand wanted to maximize the impact of the music video that played on a giant screen that stretched the entire width of the catwalk. Continue reading
SLIMANE OUTSIDE THE IMAGINATION
The lobotomized imagination, already in the case of Saint Laurent, he thought Celine was a sophisticated lady of the upper middle class who had undergone a genetic manipulation of botox with a bohemian. Really, the 70s shine with pink chiffon dresses, blue buttoned heels and blazers with a trench coat and the classic plaid jacket, spread over the past two years by Alessandro Michele at Gucci.
The bourgeoisie of Parck Avenue, with their hands in their pockets, in jeans, basketball, shirts open to miscellaneous medals or a bourgeois fashion post 60 from the great century.
The leather jackets and scarves of Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic muse coming out of his latest “Detintox-Botox” treatment, fans of the designer will surely appreciate, but, for us, Slimane’s signature is still linked to the memories of the years when Paris was the epicentre of this glamour and celebration, and when Saint Laurent was the cornerstone of fashion but with collections that were created in the workshops and outside nightclubs. Continue reading