MARC JABOB’S AND NIETZSCHE
In the face of ever-changing resources, unexpected obstacles, and a world that is digitizing new standards of reality, my sentiment is that unwavering creativity is the essence of living.
The words of philosopher Nietzsche read on the show notes at Marc Jacobs’ latest runway show, “We share our choices with a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls.”.
With this collection, Jacobs took his enveloping, dystopian shapes to the next level, merging classic American sportswear silhouettes with couture-like sensibilities (fabrics included vinyl, rubber, plastic, plaster, glass, foil, and more). The fall of 2022 was an extension of the message of protection from spring and fall of 2021, with quirky, cool aesthetics.
“Reaching beyond the walls of the library and onto the big screens of Times Square, the show demonstrated the power of fashion and Jacobs’s creative ability that has made him a star.” is the critique of pure reason.
THOM BROWNE 2023
The collection Thom Browne showed at Hôtel de Crillon on Sunday night. Male models, some with spiky punk hairdos, strode down the catwalk in a lineup tweed ensembles. Probably it was an homage to Chanel but also to Browne’s creativity: The fabrics were developed in France specifically for the brand, and many came edged in sequins or festooned with tiny white tufts, like bits of Peter Cottontail’s nether regions.
LEONARDO DEL VECCHIO
Leonardo Del Vecchio pass away at 87. A genius, a visionary, an Italian who inspired many just left us. Thank you Leonardo for teaching us a lot.
It was, without doubt, a visionary man and one of the most successful Italian entrepreneurs of the past decades. Through his tireless work, he strongly influenced not only the luxury sector, but the entire Italian economic landscape.
Today we lost a man with and extraordinary humanity, capable of transforming great intuitions into successful entrepreneurial stories. Constantly in pursuit of absolute perfection, Leonardo Del Vecchio will remain a point of reference for Italian excellence all over the world.
CASABLANCA MENSWEAR 2023 PARIS
OWENS GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
The end of the world is depicted in Apocalypse Now and End of Days by Rick Owens. Three orbs about two meters across were set on fire, and then slowly raised high above us, then dropped to a sizzling impact in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo.
The great balls of fire represent suns, arcing across the sky, and crashing to the ground.
Owens had been in Egypt and named the collection Edfu, after the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus. However the only literal souvenirs of that journey on the runway today were the three top-to-toe tulle looks near the end.
Owens tweaked his own codes today, introducing a flared-upper version of his killer platform boot. Another novelty was technical wear, delivered in the loose pants, shirts, and inverted jackets cut in gray ripstop nylon shot through with Dyneema, a fiber Owens said was “apparently one of the strongest in the world.
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WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK’C
It was a show of his greatest hits. The Théâtre de la Madeleine was the place to see Walter Van Beirendonck’s fine tailoring, madcap prints, and sportswear elements for spring 2023.
A host of black ghost-like forms first appeared on the dark stage. As one by one, these dress fell off, revealing Beirendonck’s models.
It had wing-like sleeves and a gold color. Over a cotton shirt with ruffled sleeves and black suit pants, a black suit jacket was transformed into a vest. The necks were embellished with chunky sun charms, in reality a “fraise” that my neighbor calls neck jewel, which was at the beginning of the 16th century adopted in most of Europe it is the ancestor of all the collars, ruffles, ties, and collars that abound during the following centuries.
GIVENCHY THE WHITE CUBE
Men’s fashion week in Milan or Paris is one of the most anticipated events of the year! One of the leading European brands uncoupling from coed shows is Givenchy. This afternoon, outdoor display at École Militaire, a complex of grandiose 18th-century buildings not far from the Eiffel Tower, maybe a story about Ukraine.
MILAN FASHION WEEK
Before Paris, fashion week the most sleeping fashion week in EU, It was terrific to be back in Milan.
We saw the real strength of collections that epitomize the craftsmanship, creativity and supreme quality of the 'made in Italy moniker. There was an assertion of brands here doing what they do best, representing tradition with great development and forward thinking.
Designers opted for a more modern, nonchalant take on suits, often offered as separates. Soft fabrics and comfort were key, as was lightness and a sense of freedom and ease. There’s an underlying message about having fun getting dressed again.
Denim is back, washed and faded and in a new relaxed version no sign of stretch or body-hugging styles anywhere. Refreshing color palettes and plenty of Bermuda shorts contributed to the summery feel of the looks. Trends included fuller proportions, light knitwear and innovative luxurious fabrics.
THE DUKE OF ARMANI
Regé-Jean page Duke of Hastings has given to Armani the new Code of the men’s fragrance franchise launched 18 years ago, a new look and a new fragrance.Manu Cossu and Damon Baker are directing and shooting the campaign. It debuts in September.
The actor Regé-jean page after Audi, will star in a spot for Armani Code in December 2020, in which everything goes backwards. There are people walking the wrong way around, clock hands circling counterclockwise, and basketball players propelling themselves in reverse.
Despite this, Page continues to walk and run through the streets until he comes across a woman. As they gaze at each other, they catch a glimpse of the Armani Code Parfum bottle, and the world seems to turn around.
PRADA IMPACT ZERO
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada were similarly enamored, dedicating much of their spring shows to short leather and denim shorts, with bare legs ending in cowboy boots with pointed toes, souvenir of Raf’s childhood and Macadam Cowboy, maybe
LECOANET HEMANT THE ART OF WEAVING THE DREAM
It is like a sun that suddenly breaks through the clouds to reveal a landscape or when a city flooded with light is transformed in one second, and so everything changes so that nothing changes.
Haute Couture transfigures not the real, but the perception we have of it. And it is in the city of lace and fashion of Calais that we are offered the first retrospective exhibition devoted to the house Lecoanet Hemant. By revealing more than 80 models of creation, combining the art of French couture to the spirit of the East, we can thus dive back into the poetry ride, and the secret garden of the two artists …
Like a magic note played on the silver string of a heart in summer, the caress of the eyes, all on Calais, a message that delivers the ineffable and exhilarating secrets of the past.
They are a duo of elusive globetrotters who bring back the many messages of the world around us, sometimes it is also poetry with them as with Franck Sorbier, and they show us a path that I particularly like. They often take us into an imaginary dream that is the reality of Rajasthan where princes and precious stones were one. Where the most precious culture of luxury was born, and which today exists nowhere else.
CHAPTER 11 FOR REVLON
The 90-year-old New York-based beauty company, whose brands include namesake Revlon, Elizabeth Arden and Almay, has been struggling with a hefty pile of debt listed as $3.7 billion that it spent much of 2020 renegotiating, which enabled it to avoid a more formal restructuring process then. But supply chain issues, soaring inflation and increased competition from the likes of The Estée Lauder Cos. and Coty Inc. and a plethora of digital start-ups have only exacerbated the situation, and these factors combined with loans coming up for renewal forced it to once again consider bankruptcy.
Today’s filing will allow Revlon to offer our consumers the iconic products we have delivered for decades, while providing a clearer path for our future growth.
In the filing, Revlon stated that it is receiving a $575 million in debtor-in-possession financing from its existing lender base, which in addition to the existing working capital facility, will provide liquidity to support day-to-day operations.
VTMBTS SPRING 2023
While visiting Zurich airport to scout locations for a Vetements photo shoot, Guram Gvasalia spotted a building under construction with rows of white, industrial beams slanting over a triangular void.
AHLUWALIA LONDON 2023
The label combines elements from the designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. It explores the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various textile and patchwork techniques. This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind.
Inspired by art, music and literature, much of the work created by Ahluwalia go beyond her collections and include collaborative campaigns, books and films.
Ahluwalia is deemed as a pioneer in the fashion industry and is regularly featured in press from all over the world, from the New York Times and i-D to Vogue and many more.
Ahluwalia is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense and Nordstrom.