HERMES
Mini and maxi
lengths at the Hermès’ catwalk in Paris, with full, straight and tapered shapes, the protagonist of the Hitchcock film, Rebecca, with her duality, her mystery, and her past-era elegance, inspires a feminine and an extremely French women. Christophe Lemaire wants Fall to be a cozy and a luxurious xxx.
The Hermès collection offers rich and warm coats wrapping the body. Beautifully draped and cut coats were key here—done in variations of robe-like silhouettes, collar-less throw-ons, relaxed military jackets and tons of belted fur vests.
His color palette was restrained, almost to the point of austerity. Which made moments like a printed dress and shearling vest especially welcome. There was a lot to like
(and importantly, wear) in this line-up, but as a whole, it was very subdued. It was luxe, luxe, luxe. Think: an entire suit made from sheered fur. The wonder was Read more »
SHIATZY CHEN
Shiatzy Chen is a Taiwanese fashion house, often referred to as the Chanel of Taiwan, and is the eponym of her luxury brand.
She was born in 1951 in Changhua, Taiwan and founded the company in 1978. The brand spirit for Shiatzy Chen is “neo-Chinese chic”, which transfers historical Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion design.
The brand is known for its distinctive design features drawn from Chinese culture such as qipao collars, knot buckles or patterns in a Chinese ink painting. The ink stone, along with paper, brush and ink stick, make up what is called the “Four Treasures of Scholarly Study”.
The ink stone from which the collection gets its name is a large water-holding reservoir and mortar used for the grinding and containment of ink. Flowers are imprinted on boxy jackets as well as on fluid skirts.
When they appeared in 3D Chanel of Taiwan and black ink, I try to understand if that girl could be the next Karl Lagerfeld of the Wertheimer Group?
CHANEL SUPERMARKETING
Yesterday Karl Lagerfeld took VIPs shopping at the “Chanel Supermarket show” complete with fully-stocked aisles, check-outs, trolleys, special offers and discount posters. Every product packaging were branded Gabrielle Chanel.
Karl transformed in supermarket the Grand Palais, the temple of arts, after the FIAC (Art supermarket for rich people). Chanel has recreated a supermarket for rich people in Paris downtown. He just forgot that he has never been in a supermarket and does not know what is happenning Read more »
LEONARD TOUCHDOWN
A few weeks ago, when I have heard that the next Leonard collection will be run by the Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, I had written an article: a Chinese who will make kimonos. That should be interesting!
But, my spy from Moscow was at the show for me.
Madam, today, I beat my breast and as you are surely aware, when we do here a mistake, we know to acknowledge it. To tell you the truth, I must admit that it was a wonderful collection; the best of the Paris fashion week 2014.
For anybody, it is not very easy to arrive in a firm which has already a culture and to immerse herself of this culture without forgetting her own culture and identity.
Yiqing Yin did it in a few months and that is how you recognise great designers. I had already been impressed by the Chinese’s capacity to influence the weather during the 2008 Olympic Games, but, this time, their capacity to change the “Couture” is becoming obvious year after year.
I bet you that this Read more »
PACO RABANNE DARE UGLY
I have looked at all the photos of the Paco Rabanne’s Fashion Show to find something that would not destroy the design of the blog. I found nothing. The owner of Paco Rabanne, the Puig Group, once again, makes a copy quite below the brand it wants to give to the world of fashion industry.
Indeed, “dare ugly” – it may be a new marketing concept? There is really no reason for this collection to be sold or shown to an audience of professionals because, obviously, we can not in any case judge a collection that clearly seems to have been made by students of first year of the Chambre Syndicale.
Mrs. Julien Dossena checks out, does like other foreign designers in France and copies the Haute Couture collections.
Over the last 30 years, thanks to Mr. Karl Otto Lagerfeldt, we have already experienced a revisitied German style. Therefore, Madam, after the ugly, dare beautiful !
WINGS FROM INDONESIA
Tex Saverio was incorporated on December 2012 to work on the Ready-to-Wear clothing and lifestyle products. It aims to bring the Tex Saverio brand to a global platform and position Indonesia on the international fashion arena.
The first exclusive ready-to-wear collection was launched at Paris Fashion Week, at Jeu de Paume, on Saturday 28th September 2013.
Indonesian born and based couturier Tex Saverio founded his eponymous luxury couture line after graduating from Bunka and Phalie Studio in Jakarta. His fashion career officially started in 2010 through the label Tex Saverio Prive, which was oriented toward haute couture designs. Dramatic, theatrical, spectacular are the adjectives often used to describe the aesthetics of Tex Saverio label. This consistent design DNA is something sacred for Tex because it defines his label’s image for the public eye. Read more »
SAKINA M’SA
As every Ready-To-Wear fashion week, Canal-Luxe presents a new promising designer. This year we chose Sakina M’SA who was born in 1972. She is a designer of Comorian origin, founder of the French fashion brand bearing her name. She has been living and working in Paris since 1992.
At the age of 14 years old, she was punk and produced from waxed canvas clothes, dishcloths and cans, her first collection that she presented at the end of the college school year. At this time she discovered Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Madeleine Vionnet, Cristobal Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle Chanel ….
Madame Vigouroux, Director of the fashion department in Marseille, was fascinated by her energy and decided to finance part of her studies through the Institute.
During her training, she did an internship with Geneviève Sevin-Doering. This get together has really transformed her vision of her own work.
WE SUPPORT FRANCK & ISABELLE
Today, in solidarity with the Fashion Designer Franck Sorbier, we will publish no article to protest against the scandalous video on the last Haute Couture collection of the “Couturier” by Jean-Luc Delarue ‘s ex-wife, Mrs Elysabeth Bost. (To read the article, visit the blogdemode.com and click here)
It is the first time since the beginning of Canal-Luxe that we will not edit to support Franck and Isabelle.
ZAC POSEN IN NY
Zac Posen turning the exuberance that characterizes him, and turning it towards the construction of his garments, he turned to the beautiful simplicity clean lines and silhouettes.
On a tweed double breasted blazer, a dozen curving seams revealed the engineering presided at its creation; it fits like a glove, and espoused the model’s every move.
As if to prove the lightness of construction and execution, one model twirled in her Read more »
K.T.Z
There was a time when KTZ’s Marjan Pejoski was a member of the Worshipful Tribe of Westwood, one of the AAA. Pejoski and co-designer Koji Maruyama have a huge club who follows them, and today, the club came from all over. The London show was very good.
KTZ gave us a lesson of globalization. This collection picked up where that one left off, with the lingering inspiration of the designers’ trip to Africa. “Berber women are even stronger than the men in their look and their accessories.” Said the designer. Read more »
CARNAVALET
The Carnavalet museum exhibits the original story of Alice Alleaume, the first saleswomen of the parisian fashion house « Chéruit ». The museum is inspired by the atmosphere of the largest houses of the parisian fashion from the « Belle Epoque » to the 1930’s and tries to tell us the mythic world of the Luxe and of the Haute Couture which made Paris the fashion capital.
You can discover dresses, accessories, samples of textiles that alongside paintings, estampes and photos discovering a luxuous and fantazised world. The exhibition tells you the story of Alice Alleaume’s life which starts in London, then in France in several parisian fashion houses from Doucet, Morin§Blossiet to Diemert before entering at Chéruit where she spent most of her career (1912-1923). She will advise some 600 Read more »
VERA WANG
Vera Wang’s romantic and eccentric designer worked on a creative line between youthful irreverence and an after dark refinement that made a surprisingly successful mash up.
The show started with moody Winter daywear. These pieces, from an enveloping coatdress to a full swing skirt came cut in a charcoal and black tartan pattern often worn head to toe. However Wang’s juxtaposition of different fabrics (wool, printed georgette and satin chiffon) made the show less monotonous.
The addition of some bejeweled insect brooches, necklaces and luxe tops with images of a bug or the phrase “you bug me” injected a fun insolent attitude into the show. But trying to wear the designer’s maxi platform high heels in the Winter snow next season would surely mean running the risk of losing life or limb.
From there Wang started to loose things up considerably with fluid tops and floor length coats which feature hazy blooms- a print treatment that quite a few designers have introduced in their collections this week. Read more »
F.W.N.Y
Last Thursday, designers were poised to hit the runway in New York, armed with their collections. From LVMH to Alexander Wang, the schedule is punctuated with not-to-be missed events.
The question of logistics is on everyone’s minds this season, thanks to the unusual location of some important runway shows. No longer conveniently staged in the marquis of Bryant Park, designers are holding shows all across the city. Notably Alexander Wang, who typically shows in Manhattan, will this season be sending press and buyers across the bridge in sleek black Ubers. That same day, the New York up-comer Joseph Altuzarra will present his first collection.
20 brands will hold their show in Spring Studios, a new event space located 30 minutes away from the Lincoln Center, New York fashion week’s Read more »
25% PROFIT, 75% OF DISCRIMINATION
On the 19 November 2012, the Annual General Meeting of Chanel International ratified the financial statements of the entity that controls the Netherlands luxury group . Net income was $ 1.56 billion for a turnover of $ 6.3 billion which showed an increase of 7%. The operating income was $ 1.46 billion, up 17%. In total Chanel made a net profitability of 25%.
You understand now the reason why the very quiet house, which is owned by Alain and Gérard Wertheimer brothers, never communicates the results of the company. Chanel International is controlled by a Netherland holding and in that country companies are not due to advertise their financial results.
That means that Chanel is going very Read more »
