LVMH RELAUNCH GENTA BRAND
He has designed and created watches for some of the greatest names in modern luxury watchmaking, including IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Gérald Genta is nicknamed by Christie’s the “Fabergé of watches
Gérald Genta was born in Geneva in 1931 to a Swiss mother and a father of Piedmontese origin. At the age of 20, he completed his studies in jewelry and goldsmithing and obtained a Swiss federal diploma. Recruited by Universal Geneva, he created the Polerouter model for the airline in 1954.
Gérald Genta has created many iconic watch models: Constellation for Omega (1959), Golden Ellipse for Patek Philippe (1968), Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet (1972), Ingenieur for IWC (1976), Nautilus for Patek Philippe (1976), the Pasha watch for Cartier (1985). Continue reading
BURBERRY A STREAM OF PLAID
Lee, who joined Burberry last October, had recently begun dropping hints about the direction he planned to take, although there were still a few surprises in store at Monday night’s show, bristling with faux fur. Continue reading
HOMICIDE FOR DESIGNER KATIE GALLAGHER
A homicide verdict has been rendered in the death of Kathryn “Katie” Gallagher, an independent designer based in New York. Police officials at the New York Police Department said no arrests have been made and the investigation is ongoing.
According to the New York City chief medical examiner’s office, the death was caused by a combination of fentanyl, p-fluorofentanyl, and ethanol intoxication.
A 35-year-old woman was found dead in her Lower East Side apartment on Eldridge Street on July 24. A few minutes before 9 p.m. on July 24, NYPD responded to a 911 call and found the designer unconscious and unresponsive on a bed in a bedroom, according to the police report that was filed last summer. There were no signs of trauma. EMS responded and pronounced Gallagher deceased.
Upon asking if Gallagher’s death was being investigated as a drug-facilitated theft, as one news outlet reported Friday, a NYPD spokesperson replied, “The investigation continues.” Continue reading
PUIG A ROBOT TO THREE BILLIONS DOLLARD
With a 10% market share for prestige fragrances worldwide, Puig has surpassed its target of €3 billion in sales by 2022.
MANAGERS’ MERCATO
With immediate effect, Philippe Farnier has been appointed executive vice president international of Parfums Christian Dior. In an internal memo, parent company LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced changes in its Perfumes and Cosmetics Division earlier this month. That included the nomination of Véronique Courtois taking the helm of Parfums Christian Dior.
He succeeds Bruno Angibeau, who served as international managing director of Parfums Christian Dior since 2011. He is leaving LVMH.
For now, Farnier will continue to be chief executive officer of Travel Retail LVMH Beauty, working closely with Stéphane Rinderknech, the newly appointed chairman and CEO of LVMH’s Beauty Division. The group is cleaning up after the changes in the group’s newspapers, now it is the perfumes and after certainly couture… It was time!
L’OREAL AND GEMO
The quest for sustainable ingredients is picking up pace at L’Oréal. One of the world’s largest beauty companies announced Monday that it has invested in a Geno-led initiative to develop and commercialize biotechnology-based alternatives to key ingredients in beauty products.
A founding member of the initiative is Genomatica Inc., known as Geno, along with Unilever and Kao.
According to Barbara Lavernos, L’Oréal deputy chief executive responsible for research, innovation, and technology, Geno is among the most powerful biotech start-ups.
Geno develops sustainable materials from plant- or waste-based feedstocks rather than fossil fuels. A wide range of products are made from its materials, including cosmetics, carpets, performance foods, drinks, and home cleaners. Continue reading
SCOTT AT LVMH OR CHANEL
A statement will be released shortly regarding Jeremy Scott’s departure from Moschino after 10 years as creative director.
Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, said he was fortunate to work with the creative force that is Jeremy Scott. “I would like to thank him for his ten years of commitment to Franco Moschino’s legacy house and for ushering in a distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history.” Continue reading
A STINKY SMELL PERFUME
In many member states, the European Commission conducted unannounced inspections of companies and an association involved in the perfume industry. A collusion investigation is being conducted regarding the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients.
According to the Commission, which did not reveal the names of the companies and associations it inspected, it has also sent formal requests for information to several companies in the same sector. But knowing that few companies produce perfumes we can easily guess which ones.
“The inspection and requests for information concern possible collusion in the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients,” the European Commission said in a statement. “Fragrances are used in the manufacture of consumer products, such as household products and personal care products.
The Commission stressed that these inspections do not imply that the companies are guilty and do not prejudge the outcome of the investigation.
In exchange for reporting the conduct and cooperating with the Commission throughout its investigation, companies that participated in a secret cartel may receive immunity from fines or a significant reduction in fines under the European Commission’s leniency program. Continue reading
BACK TO THE WISE FASHION
From Sarah Burton’s return to Alexander McQueen’s Savile Row roots to Chitose Abe’s pinstriped suits at Sacai to Louis Vuitton’s blanket-soft herringbone blazers and pants to Simone Rocha’s sublime sailor-inspired styles, tailoring was prominent throughout the show.
At Prada, Raf Simons called the idea “daily couture,” and the collection he designed with Miuccia Prada was full of it, with perfect black pants, army shirts and classic crewneck sweaters, as well as floral-decorated white skirts and volume-back military coats with origami flowers. Even Loewe elevated everyday leather shirtdresses, twisty knits, and trompe l’oeil dresses to must-haves.
A masterful mix of Space Age and modern age was showcased by Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne with chainmail, chandelier crystals, and fringed tinsel. Despite the return to reality, runway fireworks were largely absent, except for Thom Browne’s epic staging of “The Little Prince.” The season’s dominant storyline was wearable clothes, but it wasn’t enough to re-focus attention on New York, according to the new chairman of the CFDA. It’s important to put on a show.
IN THE EYES OF PASSION
Here is the most glaring contradiction of this new world of fashion, new status and pillar of popular culture, a show that anyone can follow or even practice by commenting for the most part without any knowledge. A large part of the audience on Instagram is dominated by fashionistas in slippers often having unemployed neurons.
However, they believe they have a true devotion, for fashion, not out of passion, but out of a desire to shine from Andy Warhol’s 15 minutes of fame. Some of them think they are indispensable, like the bimbo who works for 1,200 euros gross at LVMH, and who, with a business card with the “Vuitton” logo, thinks she is the top of the fashion week. One of them told me one day: “fashion is me! She was a saleswoman at Sephora. Continue reading
GUCCI A SPACE ODYSSEY
New Gucci advertising campaign celebrating Stanley Kubrick. I’ve always been charmed by cinema. For its power to tell stories that can probe human adventure and its drift,” begin Alessandro Michele’s notes on the new Exquisite Gucci campaign, which draws inspiration from a series of iconic films by the late, celebrated sculptor of genres, Stanley Kubrick. Continue reading
OSCARS BY CARATS
To make rhyme style and sustainability, it was the mission given this year by the Oscars to the guests of the prestigious ceremony. They were invited this March 12 to favor rental, reuse, upcycling, or natural materials to green the most scrutinized red carpet of the season.
As a result, the expected “green” wave didn’t break over the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, but a handful of guests worked to show the way towards a more planet-friendly ceremony.
Always on the lookout for Pantone’s “color of the year” at the Oscars, Eiseman pointed to Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab gown.
Mr. Eiseman highlighted Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab dress. Cara and her new one hundred percent silicon bust and tattoos, muse of luxury houses, but especially muse of the best payers.
It was for this 95th ceremony to turn to vintage dresses, already worn on other occasions, rented, or borrowed in the archives of major fashion houses, pure marketing in fact. And we forgot the blood diamonds.
LUXURY INSIDE THE DREAM
After two strong years of luxury sales in Europe and the U.S., high-end demand remains strong.Mostly, freewheeling spending is driven by “how people feel, what they want” Consumers “don’t care and want to have a good time” even if their stock market portfolios decline after experiencing two terrible years caused by the pandemic.
The demand for new dresses, shoes, and handbags is outpacing jewelry purchases, which spiked due to gifting during the pandemic and continue to show strong results, he added.
In 2018, Louis Vuitton reported that it had 5 million Chinese consumers, representing .03 percent of the Chinese population. This underscores how thin the penetration of Chinese demand is.
With the return of shoppers from China, who can now travel more freely, luxury stores, including some that already have waiting lists and require appointments, could potentially get very crowded.
FASHION BUYERS FLEE THE FRENCH CAPITAL
According to a study, the majority of Buyers leave the French capital. It was not until 508 that Paris became the capital of the Franks for the first time. And it is still the work of Clovis who resides in the thermal bath, as its name indicates, in Paris built by the Romans.
And despite the history of the capital, the fact is there, Russian, Chinese, American and Italian who represent 85% of the fashion buyers coming usualy in Paris during the Fashion Week, were on vacation this year. Since the French capital has begun works in the street it has made traffic more difficult and leds to heavy traffic and if you add strikes of all sorts plus garbages left on the pavements of the streets as well as a lack of services in the restaurants you discouraged people to come and work in Paris