CHLOÉ FASHION PETITION

Chloé Signs Petition to Overhaul Fashion Calendar. “While it boasts an impressive list of signatories, the petition was for a more sensible and sustainable fashion calendar spearheaded by Dries Van Noten did not manage to rope in any brand from Europe’s three big luxury groups until now.

We has learned that Chloé chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini has signed the so-called forum letter, which aims to better align fashion deliveries with seasons and stamp out early markdowns. Chloé is the flagship fashion brand of Swiss luxury group Richemont, also parent of Cartier, Dunhill, Baume & Mercier and Net-a-porter. Continue reading

FRAGRANCE FÉCONDATION WEBINAR

The Fragrance Foundation is bringing its awards online finalists will be announced via webinar. The awards ceremony, annually held at Lincoln Center, has been postponed to September and is being planned as a livestream.

The Fragrance Foundation has also moved the consumer choice voting to August, ahead of the event. We’re hoping this will help spur retail excitement,It will also help us invigorate the category in August.

This year, the foundation is forgoing honorees and instead will introduce new categories, including those based on sustainability, gender-neutral scents and innovation.

The Fragrance Foundation, in the last few years has really looked at resources and where the community wants them. Even though we are not having the event, we need to look at 2021 to find ways to bring back events; the media coverage of the awards is so tremendous, we’ll find our way back.

ALBER SAID THANK YOU

The former Lanvin designer, now in the throes of getting his Richemont-backed start-up AZ Fashion up and running, lauded those on health-care’s front lines for “coming to work day after day with so much courage and passion, to help, to take care of us, to be there when we really really need you. You’re the best, thank you for being there.”

“Merci,” Alber Elbaz scrawls above a cluster of nurses he sketched on a T-shirt his way of thanking the health-care workers who have risen to the challenge in caring for thousands of French citizens hospitalized with COVID-19.

T-shirts, a collaboration with contemporary fashion chain Gerard Darel, are on sale in all his boutiques and his e-shop for 45 euros, with proceeds to La Fondation Hôpitaux de Paris Hôpitaux de France. Continue reading

HEAD OF ACTIVE COSMETICS

L’Oréal has named Myriam Cohen-Welgryn to head its active cosmetics division, bringing in a consumer goods veteran with experience in corporate environmental policies to run its fastest-growing business and join the group’s executive committee.

Cohen-Welgryn will report to Nicolas Hieronimus and succeeds longtime L’Oreal executive Brigitte Liberman, who will retire at the end of the year after 34 years at the beauty giant.

A graduate of the French business school ESSEC, Cohen-Welgryn joins from Mars, where she was recently a regional director of the pet food activity. The executive started out her career at Proctor Gamble in brand management in 1989. She later moved to Pepsi Co. and then Danone, where she lead the company’s environmental strategy. Continue reading

KARL AND THE FAST FASHION

It was a Big bang that the Lagerfeld for H&M project while he had never visited an H&M store himself, the designer noticed young people in his studio wearing its clothes, and he knew it eclipsed all other fashion brands withe of its mighty distribution network, then numbering about 1,000 stores in 19 countries.

Yet the designer reasoned that a sketch for a Chanel couture dress, Fendi fur coat, Lagerfeld Gallery blazer or H&M shirt involved the same process, cost and effort the design component being the most important. He proved that fast-fashion can also be creative.

Karl had never done mass market and he loved a challenge. He proved he could do an elegant line, but less expensive.

The H&M project magnified Lagerfeld’s fame, as he based the coed range on his emphatic and graphic personal style, hinged on high-collared shirts and lean black tailoring. H&M even included his fingerless driving gloves and a T-shirt bearing a sketch of his face. Continue reading

PARIS RETURN EMPIRE OF SHOPPING

The first, post-coronavirus shopping day in the French capital got off to a bumpy start on Monday, but by mid-afternoon a number of streets and some stores, too were buzzing with activity.

Tension had run high in the days leading up to France’s first opening day on Monday. People would be allowed to move around freely, without the obligatory permission form, and most stores were allowed to resume business. But shopping centers, along with restaurants and cafés, were left off the initial list of new openings to be revisited in three weeks’ time.

There was hope that the famed Boulevard Haussmann department stores Printemps and Galeries Lafayette would be given the green light, too, but at the last minute local authorities voted no, dashing the expectations of executives and store employees who had scrambled to outfit their stores, erecting plexiglass in front of checkout stands, setting up hand sanitizer stations, and taping distancing guides on the floors. Continue reading

MAUREEN CHIQUET A GOLDEN GOOSE

Former Chanel global chief executive officer Maureen Chiquet will be named president of Golden Goose next month, signaling the brand’s intention to further develop its U.S. market.

The appointment is expected to be finalized after the closing of the sale of the Italian brand to Permira, expected on June 10. Chiquet succeeds Patrizio di Marco, who remains a coinvestor in the label. Ceo Silvio Campara told I want to thank Patrizio, on behalf of the company, too, for being an inexhaustible source of inspiration, and for having known how to interpret the brand and transmit his passion for Golden Goose.

At the same time, the executive said he was “happy to welcome Maureen Chiquet, looking forward to new and important challenges. Chiquet, who exited Chanel in 2016, began her career with L’Oréal in France, later moved to San Francisco and rose through the ranks at The Gap as a merchant under the tutelage of Millard “Mickey” Drexler. Continue reading

NEIMAN CHAPTER HEAVEN

Bankruptcy spells a new chapter for the Neiman Marcus Group, with $4 billion of its debt wiped out, different owners and a fresh financing package to keep operating.

But according to the luxury retailer’s chief executive officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck, there is much that will stay intact, at least in the weeks and months ahead.

In an interview on Thursday, just two hours after NMG filed for Chapter 11, van Raemdonck that the existing management will remain with the company through the bankruptcy proceedings expected to last into the fall, and that based on past conversations with creditors, who are now the owners, he’s confident they’re on board with sustaining the Neiman’s transformation strategy he’s been championing for two years. Continue reading

MICHAEL BURKE CALLS STEVEN BURKE

Louis Vuitton called on French artist Steven Burke, aka Luckylefthand, to decorate the façade of its Pont Neuf headquarters in central Paris with his bright, minimalist artwork.

The artist, who hails from a surfing town on France’s southwest coast, painted bright, stylized rainbows and his signature hand motif in a nod to social distancing, the hands are symbolically placed with a meter-and-a-half space between each.

The artist said he sought to both convey the feeling of summer vacation while also capturing the current, transitory period.

The neighborhood is also home to LVMH’s sprawling Samaritaine complex, which will house a high-end hotel and small department store, which had been scheduled to open this spring before the coronavirus crisis hit. Continue reading

PARSONS VIRTUAL SCHOOL

Parsons Launches Podcast Series for Master’s Program, Public.

As students transition from the classroom to virtual learning, Parsons School of Design has launched a Retail Revolution podcast that features weekly episodes with experts from a variety of fields offering insights and perspectives on how retailers can weather the coronavirus crisis.

New episodes of the podcast, which is housed on its own web site as well as on Instagram, Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, TuneIn and Spotify, will air twice a week. So far, episodes have featured Meisha Brown, vice president of department stores for Kering Eyewear; Brandon Roe, marketer and author, and Noam Levavi, chief executive officer of ByondXR. Continue reading

LAFAYETTE SAME LEVEL AS SAMARITAINE

Galeries Lafayette’s Nicolas Houzé Preps the Family Store for Reopening. The fabled Parisian department store may return to business on May 11.

Century-old family business Galeries Lafayette has been hit hard by the coronavirus crisis. Stores remain shut, tourists are not likely to return to the French capital anytime soon, consumption forecasts look dicey, sales are expected to drop by 50 percent this year that’s 1 billion euros less.

Executives are rethinking store hours, given constraints of public transport and worker availability child care remains a challenge, as schools open gradually, with limited capacity. Store hours will likely be reduced both during the week and on weekends, and discussions with unions are ongoing.

The group is working to open nearly all of its Galeries Lafayette and BHV Marais stores, with the exception of flagships in shopping centers French officials have said large shopping centers will remain closed for the first phase of easing restrictions, which will be revisited on June 2. Continue reading

PARADISE ISLAND EXILE

On his island, billionaire Richard Branson confined out of reality. To live rich and happy, let’s live in hiding.” Richard Branson never liked this adage, which was a bit tampered with. The 69-year-old British billionaire has always preferred light and excitement. On Twitter, he presents himself as “a tie-allergic adventurer, philanthropist and troublemaker”. Continue reading

THE DRAGON VOGUE MADE IN CHINA

Tang Shuang, Vogue China Deputy Publisher Resigns,Tang had sold her WeChat channel and its subscribers to Condé Nast China to rebrand as Vogue Business’s regional edition.

Disagreements over the newly-launched Vogue Business in China, which is published on WeChat and had acquired her much-followed personal account and rebranded it into the trade title’s presence, appears to have played a part.

“After much deliberation, I felt that there was a slight gap between my personal style and the company and I decided to focus on my career. Instead of starting a WeChat channel from scratch, Vogue Business in China launched last December by buying Tang’s account called Quanzi, meaning inner circle in Chinese. At the time, it had around 60,000 subscribers. Continue reading