Following the launch of the sustainable initiative Paris Good Fashion in January, founder Isabelle Lefort received a flood of reactions to the project, which was sparked by the city of Paris and supported by the Institut Français de la mode, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the Galeries Lafayette.
Six months later, Kering, Chanel, Richemont and SMCP are also now on board, as well as both the French couture and ready-to-wear federations, textile trade show Première Vision and even fashion model Arizona Muse.
"It revealed there has clearly been a global awakening, but now everyone needs to sit round a table to discuss and exchange ideas for concrete actions’s Continue reading
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were bidding a poignant farewell after nearly a decade as creative directors. The moving retrospective, which opened and closed the show, was choreographed by Léo Lerus. Some 5,000 guests attended, including members of the public, fashion students and Kenzo staff.
Fluttery strips of fabric, like little waves, lined the front and back of a navy dress, while halter tops with puff sleeves had a liquid sheen. One hoodie came with a toile de jouy like design and a big sailing ship, while sailor collars or fishing net panels adorned jackets.
This farewell should have come as no surprise to those familiar with Lim and Leon, whose shows have long included live bands, dance troupes and traditional Japanese theater, in a nod to the house’s founder, Kenzo Takada. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has so far been mum on its succession plan in order not to taint Leon and Lim’s final show.
But according to sources, Kenzo is zeroing in on a contract with Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who last year wrapped an eight-year tenure as creative director of Lacoste. Continue reading
This show was an Olivier Rousteing spectacular, with the designer joining the city’s annual Fête de la Musique in Paris on the longest night of the year, and inviting a 2,000-strong (Ego forces) crowd to watch his men’s runway outing and outdoor concert. Continue reading
Off-White opened the second day of Paris Fashion Week with a controversial show. The subject of the debate wasn’t the clothes but the end of the presentation. Rewind.
The set was a huge stage mounted inside the Carreau du Temple made of plywood: people were sitting all around a big flower bed with musk and white carnations.
But the finale shook up the entire audience. The models came out in groups stomping on the flowers and devastating the bucolic atmosphere. We could naively interpret this as bad boys that violate the “keep off the grass” sign. Continue reading
Kering has named Bartolomeo Rongone as chief executive officer of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Claus-Dietrich. Rongone’s appointment will be effective beginning Sept. 1, making him the third former Saint Laurent executive to take on a ceo role at Kering.
Rongone was previously chief operating officer of Saint Laurent in charge of ready-to-wear, leather goods and shoes, as well as global retail operations and client engagement. He joins Bottega Veneta at a time of rapid change for the brand, which last year hired Daniel Lee as creative director.
The Italian executive, 48, will report to François-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of Kering. Continue reading
Carven was acquired by Icicle Group in October 2018 with the aim to relaunch and redeploy the Carven brand, activities and collections in France, China and the international market. This major hire, conducted with the assistance of an Executive Search Firm, is a first step which demonstrates the will of the Icicle Group to give Carven the leadership it deserves to ensure its development in addition to the strength and synergies the Icicle Group will provide to the French Fashion House.
Daphne Cousineau was most recently President EMEA for Balenciaga, prior to that she was Global Sales Director at Lanvin after having spent several years at Valentino in France and in Europe in Managing Director and commercial positions. Earlier in her career, she was with McKinsey company where she held various consulting positions in Montreal, London and Paris. A Canadian and French national, Daphné Cousineau is a graduate from the University of Montreal. Continue reading
I like to try to push the boundaries of an identity of a garment,” said Francesco Malandrini, winner of the Supernature: Polimoda Fashion Show 2019, held Tuesday night at the Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence on the occasion of Pitti Uomo.
As one of 22 of the school’s final year Fashion Design students selected to participate in the event, the 25-year-old’s six bold, cartoonish, graphic and arty men’s wear silhouettes based on printed foam impressed a panel of industry players.
Malandrini, who grew up in the outskirts of Florence and graduated from the fashion school the day after the show, said he saw foam as a good medium for creating volume and displaying print, but also for communicating.
“It’s meant to be a reflection on human nature and mankind, with this idea that we’re just animals among other animals. Continue reading
A road trip through the Arizona desert was the starting point for Olivier Rousteing’s resort collection for Balmain, a desert for a desert creation which featured caftans printed with cactuses (ouch!) and burnt landscapes as well as graphic minidresses inspired by tribal paintings and tattoos from French designers. Continue reading
Hearst Magazines is taking a digital swerve with its choice for the new editor in chief of Esquire. Michael Sebastian, currently digital director for the magazine, is its new editor, making for a major leap on the masthead. Sebastian has been at Esquire for only about two years, but joined Hearst in 2015 as senior editor and then director of its digital news division.
Before that, he was a reporter, with a stint covering media for AdAge and before that several years covering p.r. industry news for Lawrence Ragan Communications.
Nick Sullivan, currently Esquire’s fashion director since 2004, is getting a promotion. He will now be the magazine’s creative director. Both men are taking up their new roles immediately.
On Thursday, Marrakech came to Malibu for the Saint Laurent spring 2020 men’s show with a cinematic sunset setting, a runway in the sand and perfectly lit ocean waves crashing at the models’ feet.
Anthony Vaccarello rekindled Yves Saint Laurent’s gender-bending revolution for today’s gender-fluid generation using Mick Jagger as inspiration. The result was a collection of sexy sheer shirts, embroidered tunics and voluminous harem pants (yes, harem pants) that marked a confident step forward for Vaccarello and out of Hedi Slimane’s strictly tailored men’s wear shadow.
Rather than making a political statement with the gender-fluid styles the designer said he was trying to express what just comes naturally to young people when they get dressed today. “When I design for a woman, I think about a man and when I design for a man, I think about a woman’s wardrobe,” he explained of his process, adding that he believed it would be more interesting to show Arab-influenced dress in Los Angeles, which he has been visiting since he was a child, than in Marrakech itself, a place to which the brand is intrinsically tied and also where Dior held its cruise show just weeks ago.
But once everyone was near the water, the sound of the waves created an unusual pre-show calm. Continue reading