MARGIELA PARIS 2018

The designer John Galliano added his dose of cinematic fantasy plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe. Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.

Skeletal structure in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.

The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt. Continue reading

MARIO AND WINTOUR DIVORCE

Face to allegations of sexual exploitation and harassment, Fashion brands and magazine titles quickly decided to stop working with famed photographers Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.

During the men’s fashion show in Milan, speculation raged over other well-known photographers who might be caught up in the scandal. Sexual exploitation and harassment has long been known to take place during fashion shoots for the last several decades, but unfortunately both brands and magazine editors have generally turned a blind eye to it.

Both Testino and Weber made their careers and fortunes on shooting ad campaigns. Last Saturday, both Michael Kors and Stuart Weitzman said they would no longer be working with Testino on future advertising campaigns. Continue reading

FASHION CAMPAIGNS 2018

Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Calvin Klein Jeans, Kaia Gerber, 16 and Presley Gerber, 18, children of Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber.

Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Dior, Dior’s spring campaign features Sasha Pivovarova, the model and artist who opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring runway show wearing a T-shirt printed with the title of Linda Nochlin’s essay, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” Continue reading

TRUMP TAX A BOOM FOR LVMH

The $1.5 trillion overhaul of the U.S. tax system that President Trump signed into law just before Christmas has put retailers and fashion brands into an unfamiliar situation with some extra cash coming and incentives to put it to work.

The experts agree that legislating a much-lower corporate tax rate, falling to 21 percent from about 35 percent, will give the corporate world of fashion a significant boost and might well help workers, too. The biggest beneficiaries will be U.S.-domiciled corporations that derive a majority of profits in the U.S.

Among the biggest gainers will be the department store operators such as Nordstrom Inc., Kohl’s Corp. and Macy’s Inc., which derive essentially all their profits from the U.S. It has been estimated that the tax overhaul would boost Nordstrom’s earnings per share 25.5 percent for 2018, while Kohl’s may gain 22 percent and Macy’s take would increase by 21 percent. Continue reading

LI EDELKOORT REPLACES COLETTE?

Having first opened a private art salon in Paris more than three decades ago, Trend Union Founder, Li Edelkoort, will soon take her career full circle by unveiling a public design gallery in her company’s headquarters.

Set to open its doors Jan. 18 at 30 Boulevard Saint-Jacques, the space will showcase design and arts and crafts. To that end, a Heartwear pop-up shop will be among the planned events.

With the assistance of department stores and magazines, Heartwear develops high-level goods with broader distribution. The nonprofit’s aim is to create a lasting connection with a collective or region. Khadi cotton from India and indigo-colored textiles from Benin are two of the projects that have been executed. To try to help the specific regions become self sustainable, profits are reinvested in those where the artists are based. Continue reading

MIREN ARZALLUZ

Congratulation to the Spanish Director Miren Arzalluz who has just been appointed at the head of Palais Gelliera.

She has a dozen years of experience in fashion conservation to the position, including eight years at the helm of the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation. She has a fashion history degree from the Courtauld Institute of Art in London and worked on a number of fashion exhibits over the years, including “Fashion Mix.”

The Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, whose the french Parisian calls “Notre Drame de Paris” is delighted to welcome a compatriote. We wish her good luck and hope she will be the new “luz” light of the museum. Continue reading

THE KORS OF MY ENNEMY

After years of intermittent protests against Michael Kors, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals said the company is going fur-free. Kors chief executive officer John Idol confirmed that the brand would indeed be going fur-free by December 2018, noting the decision “marks a new chapter as our company continues to evolve its use of innovative materials.”

Kors has produced a small collection dedicated to fur for several years, but chief creative officer Michael Kors echoed Idol’s sentiment, adding: “We now have the ability to create a luxe aesthetic using nonanimal fur.”

With the advances in faux fur and the introduction of other innovative materials, it’s becoming clear that there is simply no reason to continue using a product that causes so much pain and suffering.

Michael Kors is the second major designer to reveal a fur-free policy in recent months, following in the footsteps of Gucci, which unveiled its plans in October. The decision marked a significant change by Gucci and its creative director Alessandro Michele. The decision aligned the Italian brand with the practices of its Kering stablemate Stella McCartney, who has long eschewed the use of fur and leather. Continue reading

ALAIA GRAVE IN LONDON

From May 10th to October 7th an exhibition planned by Alaia himself will be presented by the Design Museum as Azzedine Alaia. The exhibition will explore his passion and energy for fashion as he himself intended it to be seen showcasing more than 60 pieces personally selected by the iconic designer.

Azzedine Alaia was recognised throughout his life as a master couturier who expressed the timeless beauty of the female form in the most refined degree of haute couture.

Alaia was born to a farming family in Tunisia in 1940 and studied sculpture at the fine arts school in Tunis before working at a modest neighbourhood dressmaker’s shop. He rose to fame in the 1980s, refusing to march to the beat of international fashion weeks and instead releasing his collections, like Franck Sorbier in his own time, with scant concern for publicity. Continue reading

FERRAGAMO WAREHOUSE

Salvatore Ferragamo has inaugurated a new advanced artisanal laboratory inside his Osmannoro plant.

The 12,916-square-foot space, which is dedicated to the development and realization of men’s and women’s leather good samples, will enable the company to further expand its leather accessories offering through the combination of a traditional artisanal approach and the use of innovative machineries and techniques. The new laboratory has been realized with eco-friendly materials and was designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes.

“In keeping with the brand’s philosophy, focused on the development of artisanal products celebrating Made in Italy craftsmanship, the new leather goods laboratory will enable our artisans to grow their passion and skills with an approach based on innovation and research, always in the respect of tradition,” said Salvatore Ferragamo chief executive officer Eraldo Poletto. Continue reading

SCHEDULE PARIS MEN’S WEEK

Tough the dates and times have not yet be confirmed, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday released the list of the official runway schedule for Paris Men’s Fashion Week from January 17th to 21th.

The maverick fashion label as well as France’s Niuku, Germany Gmbh and Britain’s Dunhill London plan to stage at the next show for the fall 2018 season on Jan. 19 in the French capital.

New highlights on the official presentation lineup, meanwhile, include Myar, the solo project of Andrea Rosso, son of entrepreneur Renzo Rosso and the creative director of Diesel licenses, as well as cult Japanese label Takahiromiyashita the Soloist, which earlier in the month will stage a runway show back-to-back with Undercover as fellow guest designers of Pitti Uomo, marking its first show outside of Japan. Continue reading

DONATELLA LONDON BIO BOUTIQUE

The new store, located on Sloane Street, is taking a sustainable approach to design. After paying tribute to Gianni Versace’s legacy with a high-energy spring 2018 show in September, Donatella Versace has kept the celebratory spirit alive and brought it to London.

On Monday night, she accepted the Fashion Icon prize at the Fashion Awards here and the following day she marked the opening of the new Versace boutique on Sloane Street.The store is located a few yards away from the previous one, and Versace made the move in order to secure a bigger space.

“London means a lot to me, all the young, creative talent is here who I try to work a lot with,” said Versace at the boutique’s opening party, where she was joined by one of those young talents, Christopher Kane, who used to design the Versus line. Other guests included models Natasha Poly and Irina Shayk. “I wanted a bigger space, and I’m particularly proud of this store because of the sustainability approach we are taking.” Continue reading

NOBUYOSHI ARAKI X SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent will reveal 16 unique pieces at Colette, which are part of a special art and photography project by world renowned Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki.

The artist captured Anja Rubik, integrating photography and painting techniques, exclusively for Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello. The series, titled “Saint Laurent Shiki-in” (lust for color), merge elements of the world of Saint Laurent with the traditional themes of Araki’s work, a key figure in the modern world culture.

All of the pieces can be pre-ordered at Colette through the Taka Ishii Gallery and will then be sent from Tokyo along with Araki’s label signature and certificate of authenticity. Continue reading

GUCCI TAX INVESTIGATION

On Saturday, Reuters released a report saying that  Gucci is under investigation for tax evasion. Italy’s Guardia di Finanza, the national police force specializing in financial crimes late this week visited the fashion house’s offices in Milan and Florence for fiscal checks.

Mentioning an anonymous senior source with direct knowledge on the matter, Reuters reported checks started because Milan prosecutors suspected Gucci may have paid taxes on profits generated by sales in Italy in another country with a more favorable tax structure.

Reached for comment, Gucci released a statement saying the company is providing its full cooperation to the respective authorities and is confident about the transparency of its operations. Continue reading