After the release of her mini-documentary charting her career change, broadcast on an international platform, the former singer turned luxury ready-to-wear couturière makes a triumphant return to the studio with a pre-autumn collection defined by sharp lines, considered draping and fluid silhouettes, designed to accompany women from morning until night.

A collection that, in some respects, borders on stylistic imitation, as certain pieces seem to offer a rather obvious nod to the Spanish fast-fashion giant…

The designer draws inspiration from three twentieth-century icons: Marchesa Casati, Doris Castlerosse and Peggy Guggenheim. Three free-spirited, extravagant women who, for a time, shared the same Venetian palazzo and whose eccentricity permeates the atmosphere of the entire collection like an impeccably timed five-o’clock tea.

In this wardrobe, she asserts her fascination with dresses in motion: fabrics that glide, pleats that dance, textures that catch the light. Among the standout pieces is the “Amaya” dress long, in a deep burgundy, with a discreet neckline, gathered at the hip and opening into an asymmetric hem. Very British chic.

Another dress is adorned with subtle English embroidery at the shoulder, while the longer designs multiply drapes, pleats and gathers. And in a more theatrical spirit, silk backless gowns are painted with abstract motifs reminiscent of the pictorial languages of Picasso and Matisse perhaps on the advice of the self-appointed lord of luxury himself.

A dark hooded duffle coat, a short biker-style jacket with a high collar, and an elongated pea coat with slightly rolled-up sleeves, cut from dense satin, complete the look.

The palette burgundy, rust brown and pale blue is inspired by two exhibitions the designer visited last year with her team: Walk the House by Do Ho Suh at the Tate Modern, and Encounters: Giacometti x Huma Bhabha at the Barbican.

Two worlds in which one wanders among shadows, material and imprint an atmosphere she translates today into couture-infused ready-to-wear. Art and couture, after all, were invented long before her by the true Lord of Luxury.

FM