FANCY NOMINATION OF JURIES BEFORE HAPPY HOUR

Chemena Kamali, artistic director of Chloé, has been named president of the fashion jury for the 41st edition of the Hyères Festival, running October 15–18 right when half of Paris heads south to shutter the holiday house before racing off toward the French Riviera’s happy hour.

This will be the first edition under Valérie Duport, newly elected head of the Villa Noailles. The theme this year: femininity. Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen will preside over the accessories jury, while photographer Camille Vivier (already on display at the MEP in Paris) takes the helm of the photography jury. A return, then, to the traditional jury structure, after a tumultuous 40th edition where designers judged their own peers. The rest of the jury lineup? Details to follow in September.

“2026 marks a new chapter,” the organizers declared a phrase trotted out by every new leadership team since fashion was invented.

Behind the scenes, new general director Hugo Lucchino has appointed Magalie Guérin as artistic director, joined by Nataniel N.M. Robert (of Boycott magazine) for fashion, Florence Tétier for accessories, and Rebecca Cuglietta for photography.

The festival insists it’s sticking to its roots: group exhibitions, runway shows, craft workshops, and panels on the challenges facing fashion and photography all the ingredients needed to feel virtuous between two lukewarm glasses of champagne. Since 1985, Hyères has indeed launched the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Anthony Vaccarello, Julien Dossena, and Botter. But the party comes at a cost: a 2025 government audit revealed a €3.8 million debt, one that cost founder Jean-Pierre Blanc his job last year.

So Duport’s top priority isn’t the color of the red carpet it’s balancing the books, as part of a three-year financial recovery plan. The board is getting a dose of seriousness too: Pascal Morand (of the FHCM) becomes secretary, and Renaud Sabari (Arter agency) takes over as treasurer.

In short: plenty of nominations, plenty of official enthusiasm, and a festival mostly hoping to stay financially afloat  while everyone’s eyes are already on the beach.

FM