Sportmax opened its show on Friday morning, following in the footsteps of Max Mara, while remaining faithful to a luminous palette of beiges and diaphanous tones. The runway began with a series of reimagined trench coats, playing with lightness and deconstruction. The first looks, sometimes sleeveless, with multiplied collars and lapels, immediately set the direction of the collection: generous volumes, layered silhouettes, and a confident attitude.

In tune with Milan’s current mood, transparency continued to prevail. Here, it appeared in wide organza trousers, low waists, and precisely drawn pleats, lending the collection a unisex and almost detached allure.

Yet it was the outerwear that truly defined the season. Models walked through an immaculate setting, hands in pockets, embodying a cool, urban style with a hint of indifference. Glossy leathers were reshaped into hybrids half trench, half biker jacket worn cropped or sweeping the floor, sometimes paired with a minimalist bolero. A clear nod to Montana’s spirit also surfaced in oversized bombers with pronounced shoulders or a softened denim jacket layered over extra-wide jeans.

The wardrobe also revealed a more fluid side: second-skin jersey dresses, long silk racer-back gowns, and pared-down silhouettes reminiscent of elevated tank tops.

A few visual bursts broke through the chromatic restraint: delicate botanical prints scattered across silk dresses and supple handbags. According to the show notes, these motifs originated from drawings made with Japanese cosmetics liquid lipsticks and nail varnishes transformed into pigments.

The same floral designs extended onto long tulle gloves, resembling temporary tattoos running down the arms poetic, fleeting, and removable in a single gesture.

FM