Mini and maxi
 lengths at the Hermès’ catwalk in Paris, with full, straight and tapered shapes, the protagonist of the Hitchcock film, Rebecca, with her duality, her mystery, and her past-era elegance, inspires a feminine and an extremely French women. Christophe Lemaire wants Fall to be a cozy and a luxurious xxx.

The Hermès collection offers rich and warm coats wrapping the body. Beautifully draped and cut coats were key here—done in variations of robe-like silhouettes, collar-less throw-ons, relaxed military jackets and tons of belted fur vests.

His color palette was restrained, almost to the point of austerity. Which made moments like a printed dress and shearling vest especially welcome. There was a lot to like

(and importantly, wear) in this line-up, but as a whole, it was very subdued. It was luxe, luxe, luxe. Think: an entire suit made from sheered fur. The wonder was Continue reading


Yesterday Karl Lagerfeld took VIPs shopping at the “Chanel Supermarket show” complete with fully-stocked aisles, check-outs, trolleys, special offers and discount posters. Every product packaging  were branded Gabrielle Chanel.

Karl transformed in supermarket the Grand Palais, the temple of arts, after the FIAC (Art supermarket for rich people). Chanel has recreated a supermarket for rich people in Paris downtown. He just forgot that he has never been in a supermarket and does not know what is happenning Continue reading


A few weeks ago, when I have heard that the next Leonard collection will be run by the Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, I had written an article: a Chinese who will make kimonos. That should be interesting!

But, my spy from Moscow was at the show for me.

Madam, today, I beat my breast and as you are surely aware, when we do here a mistake, we know to acknowledge it. To tell you the truth, I must admit that it was a wonderful collection; the best of the Paris fashion week 2014.

For anybody, it is not very easy to arrive in a firm which has already a culture and to immerse herself of this culture without forgetting her own culture and identity.

Yiqing Yin did it in a few months and that is how you recognise great designers. I had already been impressed by the Chinese’s capacity to influence the weather during the 2008 Olympic Games, but, this time, their capacity to change the “Couture” is becoming obvious year after year.

I bet you that this Continue reading