HERMES

Mini and maxi
 lengths at the Hermès’ catwalk in Paris, with full, straight and tapered shapes, the protagonist of the Hitchcock film, Rebecca, with her duality, her mystery, and her past-era elegance, inspires a feminine and an extremely French women. Christophe Lemaire wants Fall to be a cozy and a luxurious xxx.

The Hermès collection offers rich and warm coats wrapping the body. Beautifully draped and cut coats were key here—done in variations of robe-like silhouettes, collar-less throw-ons, relaxed military jackets and tons of belted fur vests.

His color palette was restrained, almost to the point of austerity. Which made moments like a printed dress and shearling vest especially welcome. There was a lot to like

(and importantly, wear) in this line-up, but as a whole, it was very subdued. It was luxe, luxe, luxe. Think: an entire suit made from sheered fur. The wonder was Continue reading

CHANEL SUPERMARKETING

Yesterday Karl Lagerfeld took VIPs shopping at the “Chanel Supermarket show” complete with fully-stocked aisles, check-outs, trolleys, special offers and discount posters. Every product packaging  were branded Gabrielle Chanel.

Karl transformed in supermarket the Grand Palais, the temple of arts, after the FIAC (Art supermarket for rich people). Chanel has recreated a supermarket for rich people in Paris downtown. He just forgot that he has never been in a supermarket and does not know what is happenning Continue reading

ZAC POSEN IN NY

Zac Posen turning the exuberance that characterizes him, and turning it towards the construction of his garments, he turned to the beautiful simplicity clean lines and silhouettes.

On a tweed double breasted blazer, a dozen curving seams revealed the engineering presided at its creation; it fits like a glove, and espoused the model’s every move.

As if to prove the lightness of construction and execution, one model twirled in her Continue reading

VERA WANG

Vera Wang’s romantic and eccentric designer worked on a creative line between youthful irreverence and an after dark refinement that made a surprisingly successful mash up.

The show started  with moody Winter daywear. These pieces, from an enveloping coatdress to a full swing skirt came cut in a charcoal and black tartan pattern often worn head to toe. However Wang’s juxtaposition of different fabrics (wool, printed georgette and satin chiffon) made the show less monotonous.

The addition of some bejeweled insect brooches, necklaces and luxe tops with images of a bug or the phrase “you bug me” injected a fun insolent attitude into the show. But trying to wear the designer’s maxi platform high heels in the Winter snow next season would surely mean running the risk of losing life or limb.

From there Wang started to loose things up considerably with fluid tops and floor length coats which feature hazy blooms- a print treatment that quite a few designers have introduced in their collections this week. Continue reading

F.W.N.Y

Last Thursday, designers were poised to hit the runway in New York, armed with their collections. From LVMH to Alexander Wang, the schedule is punctuated with not-to-be missed events.

The question of logistics is on everyone’s minds this season, thanks to the unusual location of some important runway shows. No longer conveniently staged in the marquis of Bryant Park, designers are holding shows all across the city. Notably Alexander Wang, who typically shows in Manhattan, will this season be sending press and buyers across the bridge in sleek black Ubers. That same day, the New York up-comer Joseph Altuzarra will present his first collection.

20 brands will hold their show in Spring Studios, a new event space located 30 minutes away from the Lincoln Center, New York fashion week’s Continue reading

VALENTINE DAY SOON

St. Valentine’s Day began as a liturgical celebration of one or more early Christian saints named Valentinus. Several martyrdom stories were invented for the various Valentines that belonged to February 14, and added to later martyrologies.

A popular hagiographical account of Saint Valentine of Rome states that he was imprisoned for performing weddings for soldiers who were forbidden to marry and for ministering to Christians, who were persecuted under the Roman Empire. According to legend, during his imprisonment, he healed the daughter of his jailer, Asterius. An embellishment to this story states that before his execution he wrote her a letter signed “Your Valentine” as a farewell. Continue reading

OSCAR CARAVALLO

Never stopped. However, feeling the pull of the fashion industry and soon after completing his law degree had the good fortune to spend a year as a intern with one of France’s most renown fashion designers, Mr. Guy Meliet, from whom he began to learn the techniques of haute couture.

Oscar Caravallo is coming from Galicia, in North West of Spain. Upon Mr. Meliet’s passing, Oscar continued in Caracas at his own atelier directing many of the late Meliet’s former team of couturiers to create his own designs. Within a few short years, Oscar became a favorite designer of some of the most elegant women in Caracas and his creations became increasingly sought after throughout Latin America. He soon began exporting to North America, where stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus carried his designs season after season. After a hugely successful decade in Haute Couture, and having earned himself the nickname ‘L’Enfant Terrible de Caracas,” Oscar felt the need Continue reading

JACKY O’SHAUGHNESSY

She told Fashionista.com: “You know, I’ve read so many times that modeling is vapid at best. I found it to be engaging and creative. It requires energy and an ability to communicate without words.” If you thought that fashion and silver hair could not coexist, you were wrong. The new face for American Apparel -its advanced line- is a beautiful 62 year old with grey hair and a royal posture.

No surgery and Photoshop touch-ups, Jacky O’Shaughnessy, an actress, was chosen as a testimonial for the brand exactly for her natural elegance and, thus bringing to a global level the scouting work started by Ari Seth Cohen with his blog Advanced Style.

Could this be a new step towards the ultimate demolition of the ultra young, thin and white model cliché? Beauty holds no age boundaries. Women are beautiful at every age and its about time that the fashion industry realizes this. When we can relate to the models wearing the clothes as near our own age Continue reading

CROCODILE DANDY

Zagliani, the Italian fashion house specialized in bags and small leather goods, is launching its first advertising campaign and has developped an e-commerce site. The online shop “zagliani.it” is in Italian and in English and will be first active in Europe.

An advertising campaign that evolves around the clichés of eight models of bags for the Spring-Summer 2014. The pictures were taken by Continue reading

WELCOME BACK Mr CHRISTIAN DIOR

Next to me, there was a Japanese wearing a Fournié’s dress of last year collection. Photographers, throughout the show and even after did not stop shooting her. What could be more flattering than to see a client dressed by her favorite designer! She was so glamour.

The show started with a slow and majestic long music. Lesage silks, chiffon and embroidery are legion. The dominant colors, silver and green water really contrast with the collection of the last year. The style Dior chiffon dresses embellished with large zippers in the back is the hallmark of the brand Fournié. Continue reading

ANA QUASOAR

For her first show in Paris, the designer chose the private world of his own office, rue de la Banque in Paris, revisiting the tradition of Jeanne Paquin or Madeleine Vionnet, who used to present their collections in their own space with very happy few guests.

Today, we would talk about “trunk show”. For the public, to be closed not only to the creations but also to the designer, who personally comes to shake hands to all the guests, makes it very intimate. It underlines this intrinsic link between the creation and the act of creation.

Pleated and draped mixed with satin and lace highlights the silhouette of the woman recalling the Hollywood style . “Fashion is what we accept to show from ourselves” announces the program. We found Continue reading