MENKES FRIEDMAN !

Suzy Menkes’ successor at the New York Times is the bright fashion journalist Vanessa Friedman who gave an outstanding speech on Fashion in Copenhagen. She outlined the difficulties and the pressure for Designers to constantly re-invent fashion.

It is difficult to last in the long term and thus the notion of “sustainable/ long-lasting fashion” is an impossible equation: it is an oxymoron. “The designers must create eight collections a year and sometimes once a month. It can even be more expensive to go to the cleaner than to buy a new one… This rhythm is unsustainable.

Then she went on paying tribute to her grandmother “who save for years to afford a Gucci bag and kept it all her life. She knew how to clean and to store for next season as well as for the next generation. She constituted a lasting wardrobe “. But she also welcomed the new generation of technologies that today virtually set on screen thanks to Pinterest , Instagram or Tumblr, the things she wants , at the precise moment when she wants them. And she can have them without buying them and that is very bearable.