LENNY NIEMEYER SAO PAULO

LENNYMEUYERBrazilian brand Lenny Niemeyer confirmed the trend with his low-cut one pieces featuring horizontal muticolored stripes in greens, blues and oranges. Rope detailing at the straps added a fun nautical twist to the look. “I create glamorous looks with distinctive elements”, says Lenny. “I design for the independent, chic woman and my suits are meant to highlight their femininity, beauty and charm.”

Lenny Niemeyer arrived in Rio de Janeiro, after moving from her childhood home in Sao Paulo. As she began her search for sophisticated bikinis with the sensual allure of a Carioca, she ended up finding a new talent. Lenny gave up trying to find bikinis that suited her style and took up a new career.

She hired a seamstress and with small amounts of fabric she started to Continue reading

VICTOR & ROLF

CANAL2Since their return to Haute Couture, the designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have presented a pink, plastic and black pebble-esque fabric collection. To add to their list of eccentric couture themes, the duo came up with a blooming flower garden this season. Imagine a gorgeous garden drenched with color from early Spring to the first frost of Autumn. A daydream, you say?

Among the twenty dresses the designers produced, they increasingly added color to a base print of an ink blue flower outline. Those who recall the pairs’ tulle topiary ready-to-wear show could see this couture collection as a high-end extrapolation of that same concept.

Because flowers bloom at varying times of the year, and some plants are annual, dying each Winter, the design of flower gardens take into consideration a sequence of bloom and even of consistent color combinations, through varying seasons.

Dress came embellished with giant stalks of wheat and sometimes veiled in outsized floral lace or whorls of paper flowers. It is fashion Haute couture or not ? Continue reading

MARCO DE VINCENZO

Marco de Vincenzo, Ready to Wear Collection, Spring Summer 2015 in Milan“Only in Italy could the silken fringes that were once associated with flapper girls in the Twenties seem so sophisticated. Marco de Vincenzo is a master of embellishment – especially for a relatively young designer. The exceptional skills at what he himself calls “controlled complication” brought him to the attention of Fendi, which offers support through its parent group LVMH.

As a designer he also seems intensely Italian in his desire to elaborate clothes in an artistic way, with the silken threads morphing into embroidered flowers. All that in one outfit? This compression is Marco de Vincenzo’s exceptional skill, so that a coat might have squares with woven strips of python and a skirt be interwoven with chiffon.

Each outfit would require a paragraph to describe, yet the clothes seemed so simple. And that is the originality and the strength of the Marco story.” Continue reading

THE VIRGIN SIBLING

Sibling Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 in New York

Sibling’s irreverent signature is even made sweeter this Spring/Summer 15 remembering “candy” sweet and bringing joyce on the catwalk. The collection served the 80’s optimism of New York City through the lenses of photographer Amy Arbus.

The spirit of dress and undress, in bed and out-of-bed that resonates deeply in Maripol’s work was keenly felt in the collection. Madge’s legendary “Like A Virgin” wedding dress was heavily referenced in the centre pieces of the collection.

Sibling’s theatrical treatment is unparalleled and, more impressively, the trio — Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCree — achieved high impact purely on the basis of their craftsmanship, proving season after season that resource is better spent on product than ostentatious presentation, especially among emerging brands.

LADIES LEATHER FASHION

 

BALMAIN2What is the common point between the fall-winter ready-to-wear collections for 2014-2015 from Anthony Vaccarello, Balenciaga, Balmain, Blumarine, Cedric Charlier, DKNY, Gucci, Guy Laroche, Jason Wu, Lanvin and Moschino ? All these brands rely on leather. On perfectos, dresses, skirts, belts, pants, chest protectors, Teddys, the skin is everywhere. It is used in super-soft variations, or can be rigid and sculptural. Leather means a return to natural materials and to manual labor from the past. It is combined with other materials such as fur, wool, big zips, cotton, cashmere and velvet.

On the whole, for this season, those designers have ignored print, except some Continue reading

HERMES DARES NADEGE VANHEE

nadegeNadège Vanhee is 36 years old. Famous both for her discretion, her talent and her efficiency, she seems to be the right person for that job.

She has been the Artistic designer for The Row, a label created by the Olsen Sisters. She worked as senior designer with Phebee Philo at Celine’s. Graduated in 2003 from the Antwerp Academy, she started her career at the famous belgian luggage brandname Delvaux and then at Martin Margiela’s in Paris.

Though the rumors no parties has confirmed her nomination but from our sources we know that it would be her.

SAINT LAURENT

1b-200x300 Mr. Slimane, I hated being sit on the ground like a student, and you know why? Just because I have 55 years old,  when we noticed that Mr Pinault sat also on the floor we remained silent and shut up. The designer gives us his vision on California in the 1970s, at the highlight of the anti-war movement.  He mixes all the influences; Hippy, Flower Power, Folk Music, Rock, Surf Culture, and war veterans to create one of the most diverse and sartorially disruptive moments in recent history.

Leather cow patchwork poncho, Baja hoodie or pony skin cape. There were perfectos, intricately embellished hippy vests and studded suede jackets.

Then he added the essential accessories such as neck scarves, silver jewelry. He mixed western gringos and flower power culture; very difficult to understand any way. Oh, by the way I could not see anything as the spotlights were in my face.

DIOR FOR DEVOTED CLIENTS

DIOR1BThe Designer Kris Van Assche gets points for coming up with a rather original interpretation of the used and abused style. The introduction of Breton-esque bumble bee striped tank tops first worn like vest with the suits and then later, on their own, and paired with comfy denim jeans.

Showing suits, jeans, and blazers covered in hand written musing of Mr. Christian Dior. It was featured on short sleeve shirts, denim jackets, and most captivating on cropped sweatshirts worn over shirts that peeked out from above and below. Van Assche once again produced a surprisingly novel offering for the devoted Dior customer, very devoted indeed.

TEX SAVERIO

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indonesian designer Tex Saverio presented his new Fall-Winter collection at the Paris Fashion week 2014/2015. His scintillating collection in baroque spirit was hightlighted through fabrics like tulle, satin and leather. His signature can be identified thanks to details on collars, and edge sleeves.

CHANEL SUPERMARKETING

Yesterday Karl Lagerfeld took VIPs shopping at the “Chanel Supermarket show” complete with fully-stocked aisles, check-outs, trolleys, special offers and discount posters. Every product packaging  were branded Gabrielle Chanel.

Karl transformed in supermarket the Grand Palais, the temple of arts, after the FIAC (Art supermarket for rich people). Chanel has recreated a supermarket for rich people in Paris downtown. He just forgot that he has never been in a supermarket and does not know what is happenning Continue reading

PACO RABANNE DARE UGLY

I have looked at all the photos of the Paco Rabanne’s Fashion Show to find something that would not destroy the design of the blog. I found nothing. The owner of Paco Rabanne, the Puig Group, once again, makes a copy quite below the brand it wants to give to the world of fashion industry.

Indeed, “dare ugly” – it may be a new marketing concept? There is really no reason for this collection to be sold or shown to an audience of professionals because, obviously, we can not in any case judge a collection that clearly seems to have been made by students of first year of the Chambre Syndicale.

Mrs. Julien Dossena checks out, does like other foreign designers in France and copies the Haute Couture collections.
Over the last 30 years, thanks to Mr. Karl Otto Lagerfeldt, we have already experienced a revisitied German style. Therefore, Madam, after the ugly, dare beautiful !

BOWIE WONG

Bowie Wong was born in Hong Kong, China in 1969. As the son of a Chinese opera singer, Bowie spent his childhood surrounded by stage costumes, to which he showed interest in design and fashion at an early age. As a teenager, he studied Pure Design in Japan and carried on his studies in Canada, where he learned the art of Stage and Costume Design.

Yesterday in front of LVMH building,we could have thought that there were riots as there was a queue for the first Bowie Wong’s Haute Couture collection in Paris. This French Canadian Japanese Chinese’s designer is patronned by Elie Saab who has been following his career for a few years now.

Bowie Wong is a very promising Haute Couture Designer and Canal-Luxe will pay to him a specific attention in the future. For his first presentation to Paris Continue reading